Braises of beef have been stalwarts of Italian cuisine for hundreds of years. Once the province of home cooks, these dishes are now making appearances in fine dining restaurants across the country. Whether you use inexpensive chunks of beef stew meat or slightly more expensive, and very elegant short ribs, the technique, known as braising, is the same.
The meat is first rolled, or dredged in flour, and then browned lightly. Next aromatic vegetables, such as onions, and often garlic, are sauteed until tender and fragrant. The meat is then returned to the pan along with cooking liquid, usually a combination of a full bodied red wine and flavorful brodo di carne (beef broth.) As in the Manzo alle erbe (aromatic beef stew) of Maremma, Tuscany’s wild west, flavorful herbs such as bay leaves, thyme or rosemary are often added. The mixture is covered and placed either on the stovetop or in the oven for a long, low-temperature cooking time.
Often made from tougher cuts, the beauty of the braise is its ability to transform even the most humble meat into a meltingly tender, succulent meal. The meat can be cooked alone or in combination with cipolline, carrots, potatoes or other root vegetables. This is a forgiving and flexible cooking method, with very little last minute preparation, a hostess’ delight. Served unadorned, on a plate or bowl of creamy, rich polenta or set atop tender tagliatelle, this is a perfect winter meal. Use a fine red wine in the braise and enjoy the same wine with the meal. Buon appetito!
Costolettine di Manzo Brasate – Beef Short Ribs Braised in Red Wine
serves 4
•1 ½ ounces pancetta, cut into ¼ inch dice
•2 ½ pounds beef short ribs
•¼ cup all-purpose flour
•1 small red onion, sliced very thinly
•1 tablespoon tomato paste
•1 small bay leaf
•1 sprig rosemary
•1 cup Barolo or other full-bodied red wine
•1 (14-ounce) can whole tomatoes, well chopped
•3 ½-4 cups brodo di carne or beef stock
•4 carrots, cut in ¼ inch rounds
•¾ pounds Fingerling potatoes, unpeeled (optional)
•Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
•Extra virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a small plate with paper towels. Pour 3 tablespoons of olive oil into a 6-quart heavy bottom Dutch oven. Heat over medium and add the pancetta. Saute until crisp and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the pancetta to the paper towel lined plate using a slotted spoon. Set aside to drain.
Combine flour, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper in a pie plate or medium bowl. Dredge the short ribs in the flour mixture and brown on all sides over medium heat, about 10 minutes, being careful not to burn them. Transfer to a plate. Add the onions and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt to the pot and saute until thoroughly softened and lightly caramelized, about 20 minutes.
Add the tomato paste, and saute over medium heat, to toast and enhance its flavor, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil, stirring frequently until reduced by about half and a wooden spoon leaves a broad trail when drawn across the bottom of the pot. Add the tomatoes, brodo, carrots, bay leaf and rosemary. Stir. Return the short ribs and pancetta to the pot, being sure to cover the meat with liquid. Place a piece of parchment paper over the top and cover tightly with foil. Place the lid on the pot and set pot on the middle rack of a preheated oven for 1 hour.
After 1 hour add the potatoes (if using.) Recover the pot and return to the oven for 1 hour or until the meat is fork tender.
Remove the pot from oven and place on stovetop for 5 to 10 minutes to allow any fat to rise to the surface. Skim and discard the fat. Remove and discard both the rosemary stem and bay leaf. Lift the ribs from the pot and place them on a sheet pan, taking care not to tear the meat from the bones. Bring the cooking liquid to a boil over high heat and reduce until thickened and glistening. Return the ribs to the sauce. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt or pepper if necessary. Serve over polenta. The dish may be held for 2 days, well covered, in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Reheat before serving.
Polenta
•1 cup polenta
•4 cups water
•1 teaspoon kosher salt
•3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
Bring the water and salt to a boil in a 4-quart saucepan. Add the polenta very slowly, letting it fall through your fingers, whisking constantly to avoid creating lumps. Continue cooking and whisking until the water has absorbed the polenta. Reduce the heat to low, cover pot, and cook, whisking every few minutes, until the mixture has thickened and begun to pull away from the sides of the saucepan, about 30 minutes. Add the butter, and whisk vigorously. Spoon onto plates.
Questions? Email me at Adri@AdriBarrCrocetti.com or visit at AdriBarrCrocetti.com
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