Jammy, big fruited and pressing all the right buttons for wine lovers, Zinfandel is grown just about everywhere in California. At one time, it was the most widely planted grape in this state.
As much fun as Zin is, it has a historic and traditional side to it. Old Vine Zin, gnarly, twisted vines that have been producing Zinfandel grapes for more than 40 years, some well over 100 years, make wines of amazing richness and depth. They are found mostly in the hills of Sonoma and Napa, where immigrant Italians and Croatians planted them when they settled in from their old world former countries.
Although many still consider Zinfandel as “California’s grape,” DNA testing has focused on the link to the Italian grape Primitivo, with an original relationship to the Croation grape Plavac Mali.
The best case for the Croatian connection comes from my friend and world-famous winemaker from Croatia, Mike Grgich of Grgich Hills in Napa Valley. “My family owned a small vineyard and winery in Croatia where I was born. It was my duty to take care of the vineyard. One of the grape varietals was Plavac Mali. When I came to the Napa Valley in 1959, they had Zinfandel grapes and I remember seeing these grapes and feeling like I had come home to the same grape vines from Croatia. In later years I brought Zinfandel samples to Croatia and researched studies that linked Zinfandel, Primitivo and Plavac Mali.”
Joel Peterson is the leading Zinfandel winemaker of Ravenswood since 1976 and helped found the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP).
Linda Neal, who has vineyards in the Sierra Foothills near Placerville and Oakville in the Napa Valley, introduces her 2009 Mellowood Zinfandel to wine columnist Frank Mangio
Linda Neal, who has vineyards in the Sierra Foothills near Placerville and Oakville in the Napa Valley, introduces her 2009 Mellowood Zinfandel to wine columnist Frank Mangio
He has come from producing 327 cases of Zinfandel to producing about 800,000 cases of red wine annually, working with over 100 growers that provide grapes for Ravenswood. He has been involved in a clonal study of the heritage of the grape to save the legacy of the ancient vines. He wanted respect for Zinfandel on the same level as that of Cabernet which was displacing Zin. “Zinfandel is California’s unique varietal. But we don’t have a solid history of its evolution in California. We now know that age makes a big difference in the mature flavor of Zin. We are improving the root stock in such a way that we keep getting more flavorful wine.”
ZAP recently put together a road show in San Diego, presenting their members at the Bristol Hotel. Some previously profiled Zins were there, including: Opolo of Paso Robles with its Mountain Zinfandel($22.) and Carole Shelton of Sonoma and its Wild Thing Old Vine Zin.($19.) I was introduced to the wines of Linda Neal of Mellowood Vineyard in the Sierra Foothills.
The standout was the 2009 Zinfandel, ($26.) an important part of the up and coming El Dorado Wine Country. El Dorado also is home to Lava Cap, makers of a highly rated Zin and Petite Sirah ( $30.).
Best recent vintages for Zinfandel in California have been 2008 and 2009. Yet to be rated is the 2012 but from what I hear from winemakers, it will be an elegant, California style fruit forward year.
To learn more about “California’s wine,” visit www.zinfandel.org.
Wine Bytes
§ The Escondido Grape Day Wine & Craft Beer Tasting is being held at Grape Day Park Sat. Sept. 7 from 10 to 3pm. Sample the wine and beer and enjoy live music. $20. cost. Details at 760-839-4587.
§ Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is Grillin and Chillin and saluting Sauvignon September, Fri. Sept. 13 from 6 to 8pm. Pricing and details at 760-479-2500.
§ Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo is hosting a Grapestomp, Sat. Sept. 14 from Noon to 4pm. $75. pp. Music, dancing, wine and a sit down dinner. RSVP at 858-487-1866.
§ TUSCANY Restaurant in La Costa continues with their Jazz concert series, Sun. Sept. 15, featuring Grammy nominee singer Gail Jhonson, appearing with Brad Rambur and 3 Track. Doors open at 11am, showtime at Noon. Tickets $30. in advance, $35. at the door. RSVP at 760-929-8111.
Frank Mangio is a renowned San Diego wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. He is one of the leading wine commentators on the web. View and link up with his columns at www.tasteofwinetv.com. Reach him at [email protected].
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