Summer in Tuscany: Fried flowers and leaves with a sustainable Tuscan rosé wine

There are many things about summer in Tuscany that are similar to the summers where I used to live (14 years ago) in California, but today I want to think more about a few of the differences.

First, and foremost, we have fireflies here. Magic little dancing fairy lights that tell a story of a healthy environment (our organic farm). The only fireflies I ever saw in California were on the Pirates of the Caribbean ride.  They must be an east coast phenomenon.

Secondly, my approach to food, farming, and a sustainable life, while not so different from before, has certainly amplified and is much more focused here.  I have become strongly influenced by the stories and attitudes of my Tuscan friends and neighbors who made do with very little in the past. The economy of using everything, and never wasting anything has consolidated in my kitchen to reflect the simple dishes that rely on fresh and seasonal local ingredients, foods foraged from the land, and inexpensive cuts of meat. The foraging part is what has changed the most for me.

On my 15 acres there is an abundance of free food, from wild greens to fennel flowers for seasoning, not to mention my own fruit, vegetable, and nut crops. And there are any number of flowers that can be eaten, dipped first in a light batter and then cooked quickly in hot extra-virgin olive oil. Using extra-virgin olive oil to fry which adds flavor to your food, and is healthy for you…as long as you don’t reach the smoke point of 400°F.  A temperature of 375°F is the minimum needed to quickly fry your leaves and flowers. At that temperature, less oil is absorbed by the food. Fry quickly in small batches, as large quantities will bring down the temperature of the oil.

And thirdly, it is hot here, hotter than where I grew up.  I have learned to close the outer wooden shutters on the sunny side of the house, to appreciate the dimmed light and the 400-year-old thick walls, and to cook everything without turning on the oven any more than necessary. Some quickly fried flowers and leaves gathered from the garden are the perfect prescription to stave off the afternoon hunger and to get us to dinner time (another notable difference, as it is much later than the usual California dinner).

While I do enjoy a glass of prosecco with my leaves and flowers, I have a new wine to enjoy that I discovered while visiting my friends at Salcheto this week. I am enamored of my neighbor’s winery with their organic and biodynamic practices and a nearly-zero carbon and water footprint.  One of my summer favorites has always been their rosé wine made from Sangiovese, but this year winemaker/owner Michele Manelli has introduced a gorgeous new unfiltered rosé with no sulfites, a super natural wine that reflects his philosophy of sustainability.  “Obvius”  is 90% Sangiovese with a bit of Canaiolo, Mammolo, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Calling it “fruit forward” is an understatement; the only thing added to the stainless steel fermentation tank is grapes.

We have edible flowers all around: elderberry, acacia (locust), calamint, borage, lavender, and squash, for example. The flowers of herbs like thyme, parsley, rosemary, and basil are delicious (the parts that you usually pinch and toss).

•2 large eggs

•3 tablespoons sparkling water (or beer, or Prosecco)

•1 teaspoon sea salt, plus more for sprinkling

•1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

•Extra-virgin olive oil for frying

•4 clusters of elderberry flowers (or your local edible flower), rinsed and spun dry

•12 Sage leaves, rinsed and patted dry

In a small bowl, combine the eggs, sparkling water, and the 1 teaspoon salt. Whisk in the flour until smooth and the consistency of pancake batter.

In a medium saucepan, heat two inches of the oil to 375°F on a deep-fat thermometer. Working in batches, dip the flowers and leaves in the batter and fry for 2 minutes, then turn and fry for another 2 minutes or until golden brown. Using a wire skimmer or a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt and serve at once.

Serves 4