Naming wine isn’t exactly rocket science. Italian, French and other players in the name game usually conform to standards by listing brand, origin, type, producer, alcohol content, vintage, vineyards, destination, estate, etc. on the labels.
Some get lengthy like, for example, Giacomo Bologna Barbera D’Asti, Brico Dell’ Uccellone 2003. Others try to make a memorable impression with a novelty title such as Cheapskate, Left Foot Charley, Zombie Killer, or Two-Buck Chuck.
If you sampled a different Italian wine every week, it would take 27 years to taste your way through Italy. With an estimated 2,412 brands in a crowded market, relatively few winemakers can rely on marketing to set themselves apart from the competition. They often depend on brand loyalty, retail exposure or a one-of-a-kind trademark to differentiate their product and communicate to an overly communicated public.
That said, how or why does a winemaker come up with a name like Est! Est!! Est!!!? The answer is found in etymology, the history of words. Legend has it that in the year 1111, a German bishop en route to the Vatican sent his servant ahead to search for inns that served quality Italian wine. The prelate apparently had a thirst for good Italian vino. When the scout found a lodging with wine that qualified, he would scribble the word Est (Latin for Vinum Est Bonum, meaning “the wine is good”) on the front door with chalk. At one such place in Montefiascone, 75 miles north of Rome, the wine was deemed so exceptional that he wrote Est on the entrance three times.
When the bishop arrived, he became enthralled with the local wine and picturesque Montefiascone. Upon completion of his mission at the Vatican, he returned to that village and decided to retire and spend the rest of his life there. When he eventually passed away, the village initiated an annual ritual of pouring a cask of wine over his grave. The bishop’s demise thus resulted in the debut of Est! Est!! Est!!!
If the name itself doesn’t elicit historical significance and curiosity, perhaps the taste will. A product of the Lazio region in central Italy, the vibrant white wine showcases fresh aromas of husk and hawthorn blossoms interlaced with hints of fresh apple. The wine attained coveted DOC status in 1966.
Years ago, Est! Est!! Est!!! was rather sweet and likely made from Moscato grapes. Today, it is composed primarily of Trebbiano Toscano, along with Malvasia Bianca and Rossetto. Blends vary according to producers, who offer four styles – secco (dry), abboccato (slightly sweet), amiable (sweet) and spumante (sparkling). Comparatively little of this wine is exported beyond Lazio.
The vineyards are located along the shores of Lake Bolsena, the largest volcanic lake in Europe. With its moderate temperature, the climate provides such advantages as warmer summers and cooler winters that help cultivate the grape crop. Steep slopes are required for drainage since the soil surrounding the lake is volcanic and tends to retain moisture. Soil best suited for yielding the choicest grapes is crumbly, contains traces of fossil, and is saturated with enough potassium and phosphorus to help the vines flourish.
Wine aside, the countryside encircling Lake Bolsena is breathtakingly beautiful. Following the introduction of Est! Est!! Est!!!, the area was highly praised by tourists who made it a preferred destination not only for enological pleasure but scenic appreciation as well.
Given the location of Lazio, one would think that a significant number of red wines are produced here because of the weather. But 85 percent of the region’s wine is white. Most of the production involves stainless steel tanks, with cru (raw) wines slightly enriched by storing them briefly in wooden barrels. Apart from intensifying the straw yellow color, this extra step enhances the nutty tone and adds layers of spiciness and a creamy component to the profile.
As for pairing with food, the cuisine of central Italy is generally simple. Est! Est!! Est!!! matches well with local dishes like fritto misto (fried vegetables) and carciofi alla Giudia (deep-fried artichokes). The relatively high acidity neutralizes the richer dishes, including spaghetti alla carbonara and porchetta (roasted suckling pig stuffed with herbs).
“Triple E” is usually found on retail shelves with the titles Bici, Falesco and Falesco Poggio del Gelsi vintage 2002. Per-bottle prices range from $5 to $15.
People unfamiliar with the language of wine might be intimidated or confused by the information on the label. That’s why the repetitive, catchy Est! Est !! E.st !!!, its unconventional history and centuries of endurance score in the name game.
It’s like history in a glass.
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