Late autumn in the United States sends a wake-up call to intrepid hunters to get up at the crack of dawn, pack their shotguns or rifles and prowl designated fields and woods in search of deer, ducks and other game.
In Italy at that time of year, a different breed of hunter sets forth. He’s unarmed, guided by moonlight instead of sunlight, and tracks down what biologists call tuber magnatum, otherwise known as the white truffle. His favorite hunting grounds is the northern Piedmont region.
Few people ever get to follow the cacciatore di tartufi (truffle hunter) as he pursues the most prized of earthy delights. He’s secretive to the point of being paranoid, sworn never to reveal the exact spots in the forest where he and his highly trained dog uncover these elusive culinary diamonds in the rough.
Creeping cautiously through the darkened mist, the hunter carries only a walking stick, flashlight and handmade spade. The dog pauses to sniff the base of a large oak tree, pawing the dirt to indicate it found something. Dogs are preferred over pigs in hunting truffles because they are more focused on pleasing their master than the truffle itself. In fact, an experienced truffle-seeking dog can be worth as much as $20,000.
The hunter rewards his dog with a treat and carefully starts digging with the spade. Thirty or so minutes later, the truffle emerges – yellowish white, covered with dirt, gnarled and emitting a subtle, savory scent.
The rest of the evening passes in a murky haze, punctuated by the hushed sounds of dogs sniffing, spades digging and the aroma of fresh earth. Sips of grappa by the hunters are regarded as a sure way to ward off the fall chill.
On a successful hunt, the guy will bag four to six truffles, each weighing up to a quarter pound. He’ll keep the smaller one for his own kitchen and sell the others. Demand for the fabled fungus is so strong that they can fetch up to $6,000 per pound.
No wonder that dealing in truffles in Italy can be a cloak-and-dagger business, transpiring in dimly lit rooms and strictly with cash. No questions asked, no explanation expected. It’s a classic case of buyer beware – you buy what you see, so you better know what to look for. Cheaters have been known to pack truffles with dirt or clay to make them heavier.
Around $350 is a remarkable price tag for something so small, dirty and ugly. But the payoff comes when you slice it open and take a whiff of that incomparable scent, described as a blend of musk and rare filet steak. Or, as one Italian chef puts it, the perfect marriage of garlic and Parmesan cheese.
To safeguard its truffle industry and share of a $6 billion annual global market, the Italian government regulates the start of the harvest season on public lands. This has resulted in an influx of truffles from Slovenia and Croatia, which are not subjected to tariffs. Italian and French truffles are considered the cream of the crop.
Truffles are, basically, the fruit of underground mushrooms that form a symbiotic relationship with the roots of trees like oak, birch and hazel. They contain calcium, potassium and magnesium. They are also a source of antioxidants.
How a truffle grows is somewhat of a mystery. While some cultivation is done by injecting spores into the roots of mature trees, this process can take up to 15 years. Most grow wild and unpredictable, as one tree can yield an annual production while another nearby is sterile. That’s why finding and unearthing truffles has become a game of intrigue similar to a treasure hunt in Italy.
There’s nothing mysterious, however, about the truffle’s culinary influence. Though the black summer variety is by no means inferior, the white winter version is regarded as “il primo.” Its oil, drizzled on seafood, meats, poultry, salads and vegetables, elevates the dish to a palatable pinnacle.
Dining on food baptized with white truffles creates a meal like no other. To assure excellence, the truffles should be ordered from a trustworthy supplier. To maintain freshness, they are wrapped with paper towels and sealed in plastic. Shaving them at the table is an experience all on its own. A serrated slicer is preferred over a flat blade.
Though they lack the mystique and financial rewards of Italian truffles, the earthy orbs are also found in the US, in North and South Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia, Kentucky, New Hampshire, Oregon and California. The most prolific of these locations is the Appalachian mountain range along the East Coast, where hunters and their trained dogs are likely to be sniffing around for what has become a late autumn ritual.
Centuries ago, Roman connoisseurs craved truffles as gastronomic gems, claiming that their alluring perfume also triggers aphrodisiac impulses. Perhaps that’s why describing a truffle as “seductive” refers to more than just the palate.
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