Spring is here and it’s time to bring it to our tables! I love comfort food all year round, not only in the colder months, and this week’s recipe is something I like to make when the sun starts shining high and I feel like something fresh, seasonal but as lovely and heartwarming as the hug from a friend…
Risi e Bisi — literally “rice and peas” in Venetian dialect — is a traditional dish from the Veneto, which straddles the line between risotto and soup. It is usually prepared in spring when fresh peas, its key ingredient with rice, are abundant.
What makes me love risi e bisi is not only its deliciousness but also the fact that it has a very interesting history. Its origins can be traced back to the height of the Republic of Venice, one of the most powerful maritime states of the Middle Ages and Renaissance. In those times, food often played an important symbolic role in the republic, and risi e bisi was like a statement of abundance, civic pride, and the land’s generosity. It was traditionally made each year for April 25th, the feast day of Saint Mark the Evangelist, who was not only the patron saint of Venice but also a symbol of the Republic’s divine protection and identity.
On that day, a procession would make its way to the Doge’s Palace, where a ceremonial dish of risi e bisi was presented to the Doge, the highest authority in the Republic. Far from being a simple culinary offering, the gesture had a political meaning, too, because it celebrated the link between the Doge, the people, and the land: the peas used in the dish came from the flat, fertile lands of the Veneto, particularly around Scorzè and Padua, while the rice came from the Veronese and Vicentino lowlands, areas where paddy fields were introduced in the late Middle Ages and flourished during the Venetian rule.
As a result, risi e bisi was one of the first truly “regional” dishes of Veneto, made from ingredients that reflected the Republic’s dominion over both land and trade. Its spread to other cities such as Vicenza, Verona, and Treviso was natural, and each locality developed subtle variations depending on the availability of ingredients and local taste. Some added more broth for a soupier consistency, others more Parmigiano for richness, but the essence of the dish remained intact.
Over time, even after the fall of the Venetian Republic in 1797, the tradition of making risi e bisi extended from the day of Saint Mark to the entire spring season.
Its traditional preparation relies on a short list of fresh, high-quality ingredients that reflect its springtime origins: fresh peas, preferably harvested in the early weeks of the season, when their sweetness and tenderness are at their peak; Vialone Nano rice, a famous short-grain variety from the Veneto region, known for its ability to absorb flavor while maintaining a pleasing firmness during cooking; a finely chopped onion forms the aromatic base and is gently sautéed, often alongside diced pancetta, which adds a hint of smokiness and richness. The cooking fat typically includes a combination of butter and olive oil, which enriches the texture and gives risi e bisi its characteristic creaminess. Toward the end of cooking, grated Parmigiano Reggiano is stirred in, and a sprinkle of chopped fresh parsley adds a bright, herbal finish.
One of the most distinctive aspects of the dish is the broth, traditionally made by simmering the empty pea pods.
Traditional risi e bisi
Ingredients (Serves 4):
- 1½ cups shelled fresh peas (from about 2.2 pounds of peas in pods)
- 4¼ cups vegetable broth
- 1¾ cups Vialone Nano rice (or Arborio if unavailable)
- ⅓ cup diced pancetta
- ½ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
- 3½ tablespoons butter
- 1 small onion, finely chopped (about ⅓ to ½ cup)
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Instructions:
- Prepare the peas and broth: Shell the peas, reserving the pods. Rinse the pods and simmer them in the vegetable broth for about 30 minutes. Strain and discard the pods, keeping the broth warm.
- Sauté aromatics: In a large saucepan, melt half the butter with the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until translucent. Stir in the diced pancetta and cook until it begins to crisp.
- Add peas: Incorporate the shelled peas into the pan, cooking for a few minutes until they begin to soften.
- Cook the rice: Add the rice to the pan, stirring to coat it with the fat and mix with the other ingredients. Begin adding the warm pea-infused broth, one ladle at a time, stirring continuously and allowing the liquid to be absorbed before adding more. Continue this process until the rice is al dente and the mixture has a creamy, slightly soupy consistency.
- Finish the dish: Remove the pan from heat. Stir in the remaining butter, grated Parmigiano Reggiano, and chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
- Let the dish rest for a few minutes before serving.
Serving Suggestion
Serve risi e bisi hot, garnished with additional grated cheese and a sprinkle of fresh parsley. It pairs well with a crisp white wine, such as a Soave or Pinot Grigio, complementing the dish’s delicate flavors.
Variations and modern interpretations
While the traditional recipe remains beloved, some modern chefs have introduced variations. For instance, incorporating seafood like shrimp or using different herbs can add new dimensions to the dish. However, purists often prefer the classic preparation.
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