Ever since I started traveling to the Salento sub-region of Puglia I fell in love with…well, its olive trees. It’s hard to explain until you’ve actually experienced driving through miles and miles of thousands upon thousands of olive trees… as far as the eye can see and every single tree is unique…every single tree has a story…
Harvest is every fall and every fall there is a celebration, a celebration among the trees. I longed to celebrate among these beautiful trees and this year that became a reality not only for me but for my fellow travelers… Puglia is about olive trees. They are the the landscape, heritage and economy of Puglia. Period. They have been here for thousands of years and give silent testimonial to the soil and climate where they flourish and the reverence and care they receive. In return they produce absolutely sublime olive oil.
Just to be clear, we’re not just talking about an olive grove of a few thousand trees…we’re talking about millions and millions of olive trees…about 60 million at last estimate. Literally, an olive tree for every citizen of Italy…that’s a LOT of trees…Olive trees brought by the Greeks found a loving home and have thrived for millennia here. Yes, you heard me…for thousands of years. Each tree bearing witness and a living testimonial to a rich and deep love for the land and for this place.
And there’s something else about the trees here; they have been sculpted and shaped by this place, this land where they thrive. A land whose flat terrain and ideal conditions — wind, sun and sea– have also defined Puglia’s history and culture. Since the first time I visited Puglia I fell in love with its unique and spectacular vista of olive trees…as far as the eye can see, a breathtaking panorama.
I’m not sure why they touch me so deeply but, for me, each and every one has a personality, a story rooted in this place. Despite changes in the seasons, the weather, or the fickle march of man…they remain, standing as a declaration of pure elegant existence. Silent, stoic, graceful, they maintain their silent sentinel…watching, wise and always willing to give their precious bounty.
So, visiting a family-owned olive tree farm near Squinzano in the Salento sub-region of Puglia was fabulous. And it was here that the wish to experience and celebrate olive harvest literally, well, took root.
That wish was realized this fall when we returned to visit my friends Donato and Valentino at Agricola Taurino. We begin by meeting our 200 year old tree, a net skirt around her trunk. Handed mini-rakes (that look like beach toys) we are shown how to “comb” the branches for olives. Then the net is gathered and our olives are put into a crate, ready to be pressed. Yes, it’s that fresh…within minutes, our olives are mixed, sorted, washed, crushed and become unfiltered first press virgin olive oil. Stored in large in tanks, soon to be bottled and ready to take home.
At Agricola Taurino, everything is hand managed and everything is organic. Well-tended, their 60,000 trees are healthy and bountiful. No sprays, machines are used to measure wind, bugs, etc. Trees require five years of care before they yield. The winds that blow off the Adriatic and rich soil with deep underground water sources are conducive to robust and thriving olive groves. It takes 100 kilos of olives to produce only 7 liters of olive oil and each tree produces about 15 liters of oil. To produce quality oil requires a perfect ratio of maximum quality and quantity. The primary variety is Cellina of Nardò which thrives in the climate and soil of the Salento region and is resistant to pests and common diseases.
Donate