One-on-One with Tuscan Winemaker Ginevra Venerosi

I recently caught up with award-winning Tuscan winemaker Ginevra Venerosi at a local New York trattoria to taste and talk about the wines of her estate Tenuta di Ghizzano.

There is something immediately, attractively transparent about Countess Ginevra Venerosi. I admired her straight away for her lack of pretense. Venerosi, like her wines, exudes an easy authenticity and clarity akin to looking into a clear diamond.

The Ghizzano family has a history in Tuscany dating back to the 14th century and for 26 generations has been growing vines and olive trees. Ginevra began running the Ghizzano estate back in the mid 1990’s, gradually replanting the 48 acres of vineyards, and introducing new technologies and organic farming methods. The winery produces approximately 70,000 bottles yearly of unique, characterful wines, not to mention a top quality extra virgin olive oil.

Tenuta di Ghizzano is located in the Colline Pisane in northwestern Tuscany, just south of Pisa. Venerosi pointed out that Ghizzano’s land is “… full of Pliocene era fossils left by an ancient wave of mud, deposits that are not common in other parts of Tuscany.” The soil is complex, comprised of sand, clay, limestone and other minerals. Ghizzano’s vines grow at about 650 feet above sea level.

In 2003, the Ghizzano estate began a principled journey toward natural organic farming, eliminating the use of synthetic pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, and chemical fertilizers. Between the vine rows, Ghizzano plants about 30 different kinds of seeds which help bring nitrogen to the soil and allow it to breathe. Venerosi spoke candidly about the challenges of organic farming, noting that “…if you’re organic, you can lose some grapes. You do your best to avoid damage rather than trying to cure damage. That requires a knowledge of plants and soil. You do your best to spread out the risk.”

Venerosi spoke passionately about grapes, noting that, in her view, each variety must reflect something of the area, explaining that “the best wine of the vintage is much truer if it expresses a part of your area.”

I was curious about what kind of yeasts are used at Ghizzano to start fermentations. When asked, Ginevra let on that Ghizzano uses only indigenous yeasts “…because they result in wines with brighter fruit and more character.” Fermentation is carried out in open wooden vats and/or concrete vats.

Sangiovese from Chianti Classico when blended with international varieties can often show seams, one can feel the stitching. But, Venerosi offered that Sangiovese from Pisa has “…a sweeter character…” and, for me, marries smoothly with international varieties.

Ghizzano’s wine Veneroso 2011, one of the wines on the table this night, began the first year of carrying the region’s new Terre di Pisa denomination. The DOC was established in 2011 for red wine and allows principal grape varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah. Production rules require 16 months of aging which the estate judiciously carries out using oak barrels and larger format casks, careful not to let wood overpower the quality of the fruit. Ghizzano’s wine Nambrot also now bears the Terre di Pisa DOC beginning with its 2011 bottling.

After the excellent meetup and tasting with Ginevra, I walked back to my hotel room thinking about diamonds, how diamonds acquire their transparency from their crystal structures that let light pass through them. I couldn’t help to think, how, similarly, in their way, Ginevra Venerosi and the wines of Tenuta di Ghizzano channel the light of Pisa’s territory to shine through for us all to appreciate and enjoy.

A wine of exceptional drinkability, one that expresses the sweetness typical of the area’s Sangiovese. Vibrantly fruity, soft in the mouth, with good grip, fresh and satisfying on the finish. The 2013 bottling is 95% Sangiovese 10% Merlot although Venerosi mentioned that the 2014 bottling of IL Ghizzano will move to 100% Sangiovese.

While there is richness of fruit, there is also brightness, a wonderful combination made even more interesting by dark-toned, complex aromatics, minerals. Herbal grace notes. Warm in the mouth, appreciable structure, supremely elegant tannins. A great reference point for getting to know the wines of the Ghizzano estate. 70% Sangiovese 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16 months in 500 litre oak barrels.