Maremma, the Heart of Tuscany

 

The Maremma is another off the beaten track corner of Italy where visitors can be rewarded with a less crowded, more enjoyable vacation in a part of Tuscany that still maintains its intrinsic character. Here the traditional way of life has not taken a back seat to tourism.

 

Since summer is in full swing, let’s start with some of the most beautiful beaches in Italy that stretch along the 99 miles of Maremma’s Ligurian and Tyrrhenian seashore. They are so pristine that they have earned the Blue Flag awarded by the Foundation for Environmental Education. On the northern stretch of this area a stop in Populonia is a must, because here the beach is often referred to as the Etruscan Riviera.

 

In high contrast to the modern amenities of beach chairs and umbrellas is the actual village of Populonia located inside of a massive 15th Century fortress. Here you will find a few shops selling apparel, jewelry and food as well as a museum dedicated to Etruscan artifacts.

 

Populonia is the only village that the Etruscans built by the sea, but what a location at the highest point of the Monte Massoncello peninsular. A climb to the top of the fortress yields spectacular views. You can see out over the whole Gulf of Baratti and the Island of Elba, north to the Tuscany Archipelago and south to Grossetto. Worth noting: You can also take trips from several harbors along the Maremma out to the islands of Giglio and Giannutri.

 

While you are in Populonia don’t miss the Archeological Park of Baratti and Populonia. From Etruscan tombs, to ancient metal working sites to the Benedictine monastery of San Quirico, and the remains of the very first Etruscan settlement at Populonia, there’s much to see here.

 

Farther down the coast near Grosseto you’ll definitely want to find time to explore the Maremma National Park. This vast area of mountains, forests, fields, marshes and dunes are home to waterfowl, wild horses and the rare Maremma cattle, a long horn breed descended from Etruscan stock. There are ancient buildings to see and trails to hike, but one of its most profound beauties is its stretch of beaches that mark the park’s end at the ocean’s edge.

 

In the Grosseto area you’ll find more than an ocean shore to attract your attention. Near the town of Saturnia, you have free access to some of the same mineral waters that flow through the famous Terme di Saturnia Spa. Just ask for directions to the cascate del mulino where rushing mineral waters spill over natural rock walls into natural rock carved hot tubs.

 

Another thermal spring popular with locals is Petriolo hot springs located near Civitella Marittima. Here rushing water flows down pools into the Farma River. The spa to seek here is the Benvenuto al Petriolo. The healing properties of these waters have been touted for millennia.

 

On the Southern end of the Tuscan coast, you’ll want to make time for Monte Argentario, an island connected to the mainland by a couple of natural strips of sand and a manmade bridge. The two main towns here are Porto Ercole and Porto Santo Stefano. Scuba diving is one of the big attractions, but there are also plenty of pizzerias and gelaterias to whet your appetite and shops to browse for keepsakes in these postcard pretty places.

 

If you are all about the food and wine with beaches being incidental to your enjoyment of a vacation, then the Etruscan Wine Trail will be your reason to seek out Maremma. This is the area that has given the world the famous “Super Tuscan” wines Ornellaia and Sassicaia both from the Bolgheri area. as well as interesting whites and the Aleatico dessert wine from the Isle of Elba.

 

Stretching from Montecatini Val di Cecina to Montescudaio, and Castagneto Carducci to Piombino, the Etruscan wine trail serves up an enticing array of wines to sample and has impressive sites along the way. Many guided wine tours are offered including group and private tours. You can find more information on these at tuscanwinetours.net, cellartours.com, maremma-tuscany.com, and holidaysintuscany-winetours.com.

 

Maremma-tuscany.com also offers and extensive lists of trattorias for great food and lists various types of lodging agritourism to B&Bs and hotels to holiday homes to rent. Maremmaguide.com is also a good source for actually viewing restaurant menus. As for lodging in Maremma, try booking.com for choices that begin $85. The Locanda La Pieve gets rave reviews and is priced from $115.

 

If you haven’t been to Maremma there’s a beautiful slice of Tuscany waiting for you to enjoy. From its sites to its food and wine there’s every reason to visit and return again and again.