Beautifully located on the northeast shore of Lake Como, the small town of Bellano strikes a chord with those who enjoy the picturesque charm of lake side villages. Although linked by ferry boat to famous towns like Bellagio, Cernobbio and Como itself, Bellano retains a quieter, small village atmosphere and is much less crowded by tourists even during high season.
The best way to reach it is indeed by boat, with a battello of the Compagnia di Navigazione Lago di Como (for tickets and information http://www.navlaghi.it/eng/c_illago.html): a short ride from nearby Varenna, it’s the perfect way to arrive in Bellano on a sunny day. As soon as you step foot on land, you’ll feel as if time has stopped and you’ll be drawn by the timeless elegance of Piazza Grossi, the lake front square lined by lush trees and named after local famous poet Tommaso Grossi. A statue of the author stands in the middle of the piazza, surrounded by benches where locals sit reading newspapers.
Behind the piazza, across the street from the lake, the old village can be best explored by foot, as the narrow alleys are pedestrian-only. Ancient stone houses give way to unexpected green courtyards, small mom-and-pop stores and wine bars. Stop by La Ca’ di Radio Vecc for a free trip back in time: this amazing small museum features an incredible collection of old radios and gramophones, lovingly kept by Giampaolo, the museum/store owner. Not far from here, following the signs, you will find yourself in a hidden piazza, Piazza San Giorgio, where the beautiful church of Santi Nazaro e Celso sits in all its glory.
Dating back to the 13th century, the ancient church was partially destroyed by the flooding of the river Pioverna in 1341, and then rebuilt in Romanic style, with a stunning white and black marble facade. Inside the church beautiful frescos, carved wooden statues and a marble baptistry embellish the building.
Bellano is famous in the area for its ravine, the Orrido di Bellano. This imposing natural gorge was formed over 15 million years ago by the waters of the Pioverna creek, which dug a deep ravine between Taceno, Valsassina and Bellano itself. What makes this ravine special is the chance of exploring it thanks to the numerous footbridges attached to the rocks. The route, among waterfalls and natural caves, is strikingly beautiful, as are the breathtaking views of the canyons and the lush vegetation. Guarding the Ravine, on a crag of the river stands the Devil’s House, a curious little tower – neither the origin nor function of which is known.
The tower rises up four levels as an irregular hexagon connected by a spiral staircase: legend has it that licentious parties were held inside it, accompanied by evocations of evil. Its name is tied to mythological figures, among which a Satyr that decorates the façade of the towers top floor. The Orrido di Bellano is open daily from April to September, and on weekends from October to March. For more information contact The Bellano Tourism Office at (+39) 0341 810303.
Right above Bellano, the fraction of Lezzeno features a beautiful sanctuary dedicated to the Madonna Addolorata -Our Lady of Sorrows- built in 1704 in elegant Baroque style. The stunning altars and frescos and the beautiful view make a trip up to Lezzeno definitely worth the walk. From Bellano follow the signs from the main square to Ombriaco and Lezzeno.
To reward yourself after the walk, the Ristorante Cavallo Bianco, right on the lake shore, features a nice terrace overlooking the waters of Lake Como and good traditional cuisine. Try local favorites such as risotto and lake fish such as perch and pike cooked in abundant butter. For a sweet treat, stop by the Pasticceria Lorla in Piazza Santa Marta: their decadent pastries are famous in the area for being absolutely the best.
Bellano can be reached by car from Milan by taking the Milano – Lecco road and then the strada provinciale 72, a scenic route that follows the lake shore. Otherwise, it can be reached by train in about one hour from Milan’s Central Station or by ferry boat from Como, Bellagio and Lecco. For detailed info visit: http://www.lakecomoitaly.org.uk/bellano-how-to-get-there/
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