Acquacotta is one of the most traditional dishes of the Maremma region, an area that stretches across southern Tuscany and northern Lazio. A classic example of peasant cooking, it was born out of necessity, relying on the simplest of ingredients — water, stale bread, and a handful of vegetables — to create something nourishing, warm, and satisfying. Over time, acquacotta evolved, to include more ingredients as they became available, yet it has never lost its rustic, comforting heart.
Though today it is a staple in trattorias and home kitchens, acquacotta was once a meal for shepherds, charcoal burners, and farmworkers who spent long hours outdoors. They carried bread, onions, olive oil, and salt, gathering what they could from the surrounding countryside — wild herbs, greens, and sometimes a piece of cured meat or dried fish. Cooking was done in a single pot over an open fire, and the dish was shared among workers, offering both sustenance and a moment of rest.
The evolution of acquacotta
In the 19th and early 20th centuries, acquacotta was commonly prepared by the butteri, the Maremma’s cattle herders. These skilled horsemen, similar to cowboys, lived on the move, following their herds across vast plains, and often relied on simple one-pot meals. Acquacotta, with its ability to feed many using few ingredients, was an ideal solution. The soup was carried in a leather satchel called a catana, along with a flask of red wine.
As living conditions improved in the mid-20th century, acquacotta slowly became richer. Tomatoes, which were not always available in earlier versions, became a common addition. Potatoes, celery, and carrots were incorporated to make it more filling. In some homes, eggs were poached directly in the soup, turning a modest broth into a substantial meal. Despite these additions, the basic philosophy of acquacotta remained unchanged: it is a dish of the land, prepared with what is available, seasonal, and simple. Variations exist depending on the village, family traditions, and personal tastes, but at its core, it remains a dish that represents the resourcefulness and ingenuity of Maremma’s rural communities.
A traditional recipe!
The following recipe is adapted from Sara Milletti’s article Acquacotta Maremmana: povera e buona come una volta, published on La Cucina Italiana. It is a classic vegetarian version, which maintains the dish’s traditional elements while incorporating fresh vegetables for a richer taste.
Ingredients (serves 4)
- 2 cups (280g) chopped tomatoes
- 8 cups (240g) fresh spinach, cleaned and sliced
- 1 cup (160g) shelled fava beans
- 1 large (150g) yellow onion, thinly sliced
- 2 medium (150g) carrots, sliced
- 1 cup (120g) fresh peas
- 2 stalks (100g) celery, chopped
- 4 large eggs
- 4 slices of Tuscan bread (stale, unsalted if possible)
- 2 fresh sage leaves
- 1 small red chili pepper (optional)
- 1 garlic clove
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Salt to taste
Instructions
Prepare the vegetables: wash the spinach and slice it into thin strips. Peel and slice the onion. Clean and chop the celery. Peel the carrots and slice them into rounds. Rinse the tomatoes, remove the seeds, and chop them into small pieces.
Sauté the base: in a large heavy-bottomed pot, heat enough extra virgin olive oil to cover the bottom. Add the onion, celery, carrots, chili pepper (if using), and sage leaves. Cook on low heat until the onion becomes soft and translucent.
Simmer the soup: add the chopped tomatoes, peas, and fava beans, then pour in 6 cups of water. Add salt to taste, cover, and simmer on very low heat for about 2 hours. If too much water evaporates, add a little more, keeping in mind that the final consistency should be thick but soupy.
Add the spinach and eggs: when the acquacotta is nearly done, stir in the sliced spinach. About 5 minutes before serving, gently crack the eggs directly into the simmering soup, being careful not to break the yolks. Let them cook until the whites are fully set.
Prepare the bread: toast the Tuscan bread slices in a dry pan until crispy. Rub them with a peeled garlic clove for extra flavor.
Assemble and serve: place one slice of toasted bread in each bowl, ladle the hot acquacotta over it, making sure to include an egg in each portion. Drizzle with a little extra olive oil and serve immediately.
Regional variations
Acquacotta has many local variations across Maremma. In some parts of Tuscany, spinach is replaced with black cabbage, which is added in the last 10 minutes of cooking. Another common version includes cannellini or borlotti beans, which are pre-cooked and stirred in at the end. Some prefer to use vegetable broth instead of water to intensify the flavor. In Grosseto, red and green bell peppers are added at the start, lending a slightly sweet taste to the soup.
Acquacotta in modern times
Once a dish of necessity, acquacotta has now found its place in restaurants, food festivals, and home kitchens. Towns like Cana and Santa Fiora hold annual festivals dedicated to this dish, drawing locals and visitors eager to taste its many variations. Though once associated with hardship, acquacotta is now seen as an example of Tuscan culinary tradition at its best. Many chefs appreciate its simplicity, versatility, and ability to highlight seasonal ingredients. It is often featured in trattorias, particularly in the Maremma region, where it remains a comforting staple.
Acquacotta fits perfectly into modern cooking trends because it embraces the idea of sustainability and minimizing food waste. The use of stale bread and seasonal vegetables meets contemporary approaches to zero-waste cooking, which makes it a dish that is both traditional and modern.
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