Acquasparta is a village of about 5,000 in the Terni province of Umbria, located in the picturesque hills of this beautiful region. Its name derives from the Latin ad aquas partas, or “spread out waters,” because the area has always been rich in beneficial water sources. Nearby, we find those of Sangemini and Fabia, both known to all Italians, because we find their water bottled at the supermarket!
Its history is all about the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, with the first attestations in documents dating from 962 AD. Some years later, the abbeys of Saint Barbara and Saint Nicholas were built and the first settlement developed around them. Today, the village still maintains a traditional medieval urban plan, with a central square, winding alleys, and streets extending up the hill. We shouldn’t forget the area has a notable Roman past, too, as we can still see today in the archaeological area of Carsulae, an ancient Roman city built along what was to become the Via Flaminia.
Palazzo Cesi was the home of the Cesi family who controlled the area during the Renaissance. It is probably Acquasparta’s most famous monument: it was commissioned by Cardinal Federico Cesi and built between 1561 and 1579 and it is nationally known because it was the first see of the Accademia dei Lincei, the oldest scientific academy in the world, founded by Prince Federico Cesi – same name, but not the same person! – a scientist himself. And this is why Galileo Galilei was a customary guest of Acquasparta in those years.
The church dedicated to Saint Francis of Assisi and the one dedicated to the Madonna del Giglio (the Virgin of the Lily), today known as the Church of the Crucifix, are very different from one another but both are worth a visit: the first, which dates from 1294, embodies perfectly the simplicity that characterized the life and teachings of Francis; the latter, built in the 17th century, is enriched by well-preserved frescoes. The patron saint here is Santa Cecilia and the church dedicated to her has a neoclassical interior, as well as the tombs of all the members of the Cesi family. To remember is also the church of the Santissimo Sacramento, which is today the community museum, because of the presence of a Roman mosaic at the center of the nave.
When you are in town, make sure you eat the most traditional local dish, picchiarelli, a type of fresh, handmade pasta that looks like a thick piece of thread, usually served with a spicy sauce. Another traditional delicacy is the pizza al testo, a savory cake made with water and flour, filled with sausage, ham and vegetables, then baked on a cast iron round surface called testo.
There are also many local products you should try, including olive oil, truffles and chestnuts, which are usually served during the Festa del Vino Novello in November, and enjoyed with the new wine. The acqua dell’Amerinois also known in the area for its curative characteristics, already appreciated during Roman times. It is particularly good for those suffering from kidney stones and other issues where diuresis should be improved. In the Middle Ages, it was known as “ Saint Francis’ water” because it was believed the saint found it beneficial for his health.
Besides celebrating the new wine, Acquasparta also holds a Renaissance fair, a Festa del Rinascimento, every year, during the first half of June. It celebrates the coming to Acquasparta of Prince Federico Cesi and his family, on the 14th of May 1614. The best moments of the fair are usually the Corteo dei Doni, the parade of gifts, which involves more than 300 people in 17th-century costumes, and the Piatto Rinascimentale, a meal based on traditional Renaissance dishes. And while we may have to wait for 12 months to see it, it’s worth mentioning also Acquasparta’s Presepe Vivente, the living nativity, with around 150 people in costume and representations of the ancient arts and crafts of the village in the streets.
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