Verona's Secret Garden

I didn’t get Verona’s discount tourism card when I was there last Spring, but I did print out some of the free walking itineraries from their website.  I’m so glad I did, or else I never would’ve stumbled upon Giardino Giusti, the amazing Renaissance garden behind Palazzo Giusti, which has been praised by Goethe and Mozart – and now me!

 

Following the map across Ponte Nuova, away from the historic center and through deserted streets, I finally walked through the portici of Palazzo Giusti to find a lone attendant on duty.  I handed over a few euro and he motioned to the sky, “Pioverà”, letting his fingers fall like rain.  I nodded my head and shrugged my shoulders (for some reason when I don’t know the words to speak I feel like I can’t speak at all), waved a cheerful goodbye and headed into the gardens through a small iron doorway in the imposing back wall of the palazzo courtyard. 

 

In 1570 Agostino Giusti, Knight of the Venetian Republic and Squire of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, laid out these gardens behind his palace with all the Renaissance charm he could muster.  They were renowned almost from the instant they were built but of course, over time, deteriorated until they were fully restored to their original luster in the 1930’s.  One of the most historically acclaimed elements of the garden caught my eye immediately after I passed through the gate: a maze of hedges!!  I ran inside of it ready to prove my mental prowess by making it through in one go … which turned out not to be very difficult, seeing as the “walls” only came up to my hip. 

 

And then the rain started.  I hid under a tall tree, surprised by how much it actually shielded me from the storm, and gazed out at the manicured gardens.  The skies were overcast but there was an ethereal light that seemed to enhance the green of trees and bushes. White Roman figures stood, punctuating the garden in a measured pattern, many with arms raised as if fending off the rain.  And then I noticed the “mascherone” in the distance.  

 

A large, angry stone face looked down at the palazzo, carved into the front-side of what appeared to be a terrace overlooking the activities below (and not liking what it was seeing).  Was the terrace part of the gardens or built by a nosy neighbor? Then I saw, just to the left, a tower built into the back wall. How do I get there?!

 

The rain let up a bit and I made my way toward it, following a sign that said “Belvedere” (which I now know means “Beautiful View”, but was ignorant of at the time).  Suddenly I was in the middle of seemingly wild growth – obviously not wild, as the trees and plants were trimmed just enough not to obstruct walking – on a trail that curved back and forth as it climbed, up and back toward the tower.

 Benches were randomly set here and there, inviting me to simply sit and enjoy the peace of this place.  I could picture a Renaissance lady in her summer dress and bonnet sitting right here with a book of poetry, or perhaps even with the writings of Dante, who Verona is so proud of harboring after his banishment from Florence. 

 

I finally stopped daydreaming and arrived at the back wall where there were a series of alcoves cut into the stone.  One had an iron gate instead of a bench. Peaking inside I discovered a simple stone altar.  It looked like there were worn frescoes on the wall behind it, but it was difficult to tell in the darkness of the cave. Leaving that mystery behind, I walked through the open door of the tower and climbed.

 

I emerged out into a park, not very well groomed – very brown, really – with leaves strewn across the ground and large trees shading the area.  Then I saw what must be the terrace of Mr Angry Face and hurried over… only to be surprised by the most incredible view over the rooftops of Verona.

 

I stayed at Giardino Giusti for a while as the rain came and went repeatedly, just enjoying the peace and tranquility of these unexpected gardens so close to the chaos of the historic center.  The gardens are open every day of the year except Christmas, from 9am till around sunset, so do yourself a favor the next time you’re visiting the imagined homes of Romeo & Juliet and the refuge of Dante: walk a bit farther and treat yourself to a little Renaissance beauty.

 

Jessica is a travel enthusiast and entertainment executive living in Los Angeles. Her independent travels through Italy have inspired her travel blog, OneDayInItaly.com