Matera in Basilicata has intrigued me for quite some time. Any photos I have seen or stories I have read about this place built from caves have been so interesting. Finally now I can say that I have experienced this captivating town in southern Italy. This past fall the European Commission chose Matera as one of its two capitals of European culture for 2019.
Not only have I visited Matera, but I stayed in one of the sassi, or cave dwellings, which has been restored into a bed and breakfast. Our below ground suite in San Giovanni Vecchio Residenza was one of the oldest in Matera.
One of the highlights of staying here was the rooftop terrace with a phenomenal view. We enjoyed evening aperitivo here in this ambience where the scent of the blooming purple petunias permeated the night air. Fully restored with wi-fi and a modern bathroom and kitchen, this subterranean accomodation was an adjustment. Twelve steps down lead into the full suite and there are no windows except a small skylight high above. It was a challenge which caused me to laugh as I rummaged through my suitcase on a curved floor. I don’t think the stone walls can fully hide the fact that this was once a cistern.
Matera is definitely not a place for anyone with mobility issues. There is a lot of walking and most of it is on uneven ground and staircases. After walking for miles the first day, we opted to pay the reasonable fee of 15 euros and had the opportunity to meet Andrea, a pleasant, intelligent, attractive young man with amazingly curly light brown hair. He was born in Matera and speaks with pride and an honest perspective when he shares his feelings from his heart with us. Regarding the changes to his city, he explains that while the restoration of Matera may be good for the economy, the additional onslaught of tourists may change his city forever. “Now nobody locks their doors, ” he says.”It’s not always about money. Some things are more important.” I am impressed to hear so much wisdom from someone so young.
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