Creative footwear is an essential part of designer collections in Milan. As a shoe obsessive, I attended Micam, Europe’s biggest footwear trade show held at Fiera Milano Rho few days ago. The 87th edition attracted approximately 45,000 visitors throughout the three-day event.
By far the largest proportion of guests were from Italy, and from France and Switzerland, the two most important markets in the world for Italian shoes.
Baldinini’s décoltée, enriched by Swarosky crystals: a luxury worth more than 8000 USD. Photo courtesy of ASSOCALZATURIFICI
However, this year the exhibit promoted by Assocalzaturifici Italiani (the Association of Italian Footwear Manufacturers) recorded a boom in visitors from the United States (+35%) and Canada (+38%).
US and Canada are demonstrating growing interest in European footwear, even though important competing trade fairs were held on the same dates in North America. In the US there is a great potential for Italian shoes: the first 10 months of 2018, exports to North America rose 7.6 percent from a year earlier in volume, and 0.8 percent in value, with a 5.8 percent increase in the number of items sold in the US and Canada.
Creativity and art are mixed in this collection by Fiorangelo inspired by nature. Photo courtesy of ASSOCALZATURIFICI
Three strong footwear themes emerged in the new collections for the Fall/Winter season 2019-2020 and they are “Purpose Full,” “Light Magic” and “Free Style.” Those upcoming trends will be big in few months.
Both women’s and men’s shoes from the “Purpose Full” trend are infused with looks inspired by the sartorial elements of vintage styles mixed with more modern design features, and even a futuristic update in some cases. They are cool, arty shoes made of eco-sustainable materials which are good for people and good for the earth. The colors have a retro vibe, but are contemporary at the same time and rich in symbolism. The very trendy hues are blues (light navy, aqua, turquoise and teal) purples, periwinkles, all nuances of yellows and browns. The tasteful color palettes further enhance the shoes’ beauty and has a renewed power to grab our attention.
With Italian shoes you never sacrifice style, quality, proper fit or comfort. Photo courtesy of ASSOCALZATURIFICI
Men’s collections hues are softer and are inspired by mid-century Bakelite designs, with color gradients ranging from brown to red.
The “Light Magic” trend draws inspiration from mysticism and spirituality and proposes a series of gothic, mythological and fairy tale designs that mix surfaces, juxtaposing matte and shine with leather and other textiles. The use of materials is what gives the monochromatic look a more textural dimension.
Italy is still a very important shoe country with a production chain stretching from artisans to design and materials that cannot be duplicated anywhere else in the world © BALDAN
I loved those collections. Here, designers and brands felt empowered to use ultra violet and black to inspire and influence. Mystic violet communicates visionary thinking that points us toward the future. Complex and contemplative, it is a color that suggests the mysteries of the cosmos and symbolizes experimentation and non-conformity, spurring consumers to imagine their unique mark on the world. But, from the major brands, the message is also one of spirituality, renewal and inspiration in our fractured times.
Italian shoes are a work of art, designed for the distinctive fit and individual taste of a fashion-conscious person @NEBULONI
The influence of experimental organic characteristics on the men’s collection is unmistakable. The tints range from black to a deep purple, then arriving in bright pastel and more neutral shades: it is a color palette focused on purple and white that evokes a sense of instability. I loved the reds and tealeaf color in several of those shoes that give dynamic and more sporty accents to the collection.
Lastly, the “Free Style” trend celebrates freedom of expression and puts comfort as top priority. Free style women’s shoes are playful, effortless, ready to go. A fluid vision of traditional styling, designs and nuances are the particularities that give a new, carefree yet feminine look. The colors are vivid, vibrant and intense. Those are shoes that every relaxed woman is happy to wear.
Geometric heels inspired by architecture, by Annie Gestroemi. Photo courtesy of ASSOCALZATURIFICI
For men, “Free Style” coincides with refined street style created by white and multicolor leather sneakers for a contemporary, informal luxe style, resulting in a celebration of individuality through new designs and new construction methods.
Non-Italian visitors were mesmerized by the beauty of the models produced by Italian brands.
A playful yet elegant sandal by Andrea Mondin. Photo courtesy of ASSOCALZATURIFICI
In terms of making shoes, do Italians “do it better”?
Italian shoes are a work of art, designed for the distinctive fit and individual taste of a fashion-conscious person.
With Italian shoes you never sacrifice style, quality, proper fit or comfort.
Italy is still a very important shoe country with a production chain stretching from artisans to design and materials that cannot be duplicated anywhere else in the world.
“We are closing the 87th MICAM aware that we have transformed our event into a fashion incubator, always responding to the demands of the market,” said Assocalzaturifici Chair Annarita Pilotti. “Not only the event is an essential business trade show for companies, but also an aggregator of trends and new consumption habits.”
“We now find the world’s top footwear suppliers at Micam, thanks to the presence of prestigious manufacturers from five continents,” she says. “A thousand different interpretations of style and quality is at the disposal of international buyers looking for trendy products.”
But cultural identity, top quality materials and elegant designs are what make Italian shoes stand out from the rest.
The bi-annual event will be back at Fiera Milano Rho next September to showcase the Spring/Summer 2020 collections which will focus on the virtues of beauty.
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