Spaghetti alla chitarra © Alexander Mychko | Dreamstime.com
When I was little, helping my grandmother make pasta was my idea of a good time.  With her deft hands she transformed flour and eggs into silken pasta sheets so thin I could see through them.  I look back now and realize I was supremely fortunate to have been schooled in the old ways of Abruzzo, and maccheroni alla chitarra is the region’s iconic pasta.  Sheets of egg pasta are rolled and cut on a chitarra, a rectangular wooden frame strung lengthwise with wires.  Whether finely cut, maccheroni tutt’ova, or slightly thicker, maccheroni mezz’ovo, these square cut noodles are tradition itself.
 
From toothsome pasta to roasted tomatoes, rich, whole milk ricotta, two cheeses and extra virgin olive oil, this dish is a cornucopia of flavor.  Tomato season is on, so make the most of it and use a variety for great flavor and color.  Roasting the tomatoes with a few tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil enriches their flavor and accentuates their sweetness.  Finish the dish with a few tablespoons of fine extra virgin olive oil and a dusting of grated Parmigiano Reggiano and young Asiago.  This is a sumptuous plate of pasta your entire family will enjoy.
 
Maccheroni alla Chitarra with Roasted Tomatoes and Ricotta
 
serves 4
2 ¼  cups all-purpose flour, plus more if needed
4 large eggs
flour and semolina, combined in a 1:1 ratio for rolling and dusting the tray for the maccheroni
extra virgin olive oil
1 pound and 12 oz. medium tomatoes (about 1½ to 2 inches in diameter each), halved
½  cup basil leaves, cut in ¼ inch ribbons
¼ cup Italian parsley, chopped
½ cup whole milk ricotta, at room temperature, more if desired
4 cloves garlic, peeled and slightly crushed
1/4-1/2 teaspoon peperoncino flakes
Grated Asiago cheese
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Kosher salt and pepper
 
Make the pasta dough in the food processor:
Place 2 ¼ cups flour in the workbowl of a food processor fitted with the steel knife.  Lightly beat 4 large eggs in a measuring cup.  Remove the feed tube, and with processor running, add eggs in a steady stream. Process until the mixture just comes together, adding more flour if needed.  Remove dough from the processor and knead 2 or 3 minutes on a lightly floured board until it is smooth and elastic. Flatten it into a disk and wrap in plastic.  Set it aside to rest for 30 minutes.
 
Roast the tomatoes:
While the dough rests, preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Line a sheet pan with non-stick foil. (non-stick foil prevents the tomatoes from sticking and tearing.)  Slice the tomatoes in half, and place them on the foil, cut side up.  Drizzle with 2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, and sprinkle lightly with kosher salt.  Roast until they soften, but still retain their shape, about 25 minutes.  Remove them from the oven, sprinkle with a bit of black pepper, and set aside.
 
Roll and cut the maccheroni:
Place a lint-free kitchen towel on a sheet pan and sprinkle with a bit of the flour and semolina.  Roll the pasta to a thickness equal to the distance between two strings of your chitarra to yield a noodle as thick as it is broad, the classic square cut.  Cut the rolled pasta into a rectangle slightly less than the width of the cutting surface (strings) of the chitarra and 1inch shorter.  Place the sheet of pasta over the strings and roll a floured rolling pin over the pasta, forcing it through the strings.  If some of the dough does not cut, strum your fingers across the strings to complete the process.  Toss the maccheroni with the flour and semolina mixture to separate the strands and prevent sticking.  Place it on the sheet pan to dry slightly as you make the rest of the pasta.
 
Pour ½ cup extra virgin olive oil into a 12- inch frypan.  Peel and slightly mash the garlic cloves. Place the garlic and ¼ teaspoon peperoncino flakes into the oil and heat over a very low flame about 5 to 8 minutes until the garlic is fragrant, being careful not to brown it.  When the oil is fragrant turn off the heat.  Remove and discard the garlic.
Meanwhile bring 6 quarts of water to a rolling boil and salt generously.  Add the maccheroni and cook about 2 minutes until done.
 
Add the maccheroni to the warm oil.  Add ¼ teaspoon black pepper and basil, tossing to coat, adding a bit of pasta water if necessary.  Transfer to a serving platter.  Top with the hot roasted tomatoes and dollops of ricotta.  Use a spoon to make small divots in the ricotta to hold the oil.  Drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil over the maccheroni and tomatoes, letting some pool in the ricotta.  Pass grated Asiago and Parmigiano at the table.
 
Note: If you prefer to use a commercial pasta, several fine brands are available, particularly Rustichella d’Abruzzo. This pasta is also called tonnarelli.
 
Questions? Email me at adri@AdriBarrCrocetti.com and for more on maccheroni alla chitarra visit http://adribarrcrocetti.com

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