A debate on whether a man in a suit generates appeal might last a minute or two. The same debate on a man in an Italian suit would be over before I finished typing this sentence. Given the fact that Italy is known for its superior products, both hedonistic and cultural, is it surprising that the world’s sexiest suit is also Italian? Suave, sophisticated, worthy of a second — or third — glance; a man wearing an Italian suit can’t help but get the attention his choice of clothing demands.
But I digress — my first-hand observations in Italy might afford a biased point of view, but certainly one that is shared by many!
Delving into the mysteries of the Italian men’s suit in comparison to other models, such as British and American, helps understand the combined elements that result in the appeal of an Italian suit. And as with any topic, viewing a slice of history always helps prepare the path to understanding.
An example of the elegance of Italian menswear (© Dreamstime)
One must look across the waters to merry old England to trace the origin of the modern men’s suit. There, a charmer by the name of Beau Brummell single-handedly changed the course of men’s fashion. Somewhat like a social media influencer of today to the fashionistas of London, Brummell’s popularity and following in the early 1800’s set in motion a radical new take on menswear. At Brummell’s behest, fancy silk stockings, powdering wigs, and frilly coats of the day fell out of favor – rules were cast aside and fashion reinvented. Over-the-top fop gave way to “dandyism:” close-cut tailored jackets, long trousers paired with boots, and natural, unadorned hair. Brummel daringly went so far as to advocate daily bathing over powders and perfumes to keep one smelling acceptable…shocking at the time!
Attention to detail is one characteristic of Italian men fashion (© Dreamstime)
Erstwhile in mid 1800’s Italy, the first bespoke (individualized custom clothing) Italian tailor shop opened its doors on the granite shoals of Sardinia. The Castangia brand took a chance on this British fad and began custom making Brummell-style men’s suits, adding his own Italian flair, of course. The gamble paid off: Castangia 1850 remains one of Italy’s most prestigious menswear labels today and is found in high end markets worldwide.
The 1930’s ushered in a new era for Italian suit design. Never before had the “proper English suit” been so radically challenged and altered. Names such as Canali and Vincenzo Attolini led the way, furthering a distinct and unique Italian stylization that became known as Neapolitan — a more relaxed, body friendly fit — that was rapidly embraced by prestigious men of the time.
Handmade Italian suits are a status symbol (© Dreamstime)
Fast forward to 1945 Italy. The war was over – Italy was struggling to rebuild, the economy was shattered, and Federico Fellini’s neo-realism gave face to this new reality. Yet optimism prevailed. On Rome’s Via Barberini, master tailor Nazareno Fonticolo and entrepreneur Gaetano Savini partnered to open an unassuming men’s boutique specializing in bespoke luxury menswear: they called it Brioni. Extraordinary attention to detail, superior fabric quality, and innovative colors marked the beginnings of what would become known as the Roman style suit and a brand name still equated with the finest in menswear.
By 1952, Brioni was the embodiment of men’s haute couture for northern Italian elite. Empowered, Fonticolo made the decision to showcase his creations on a style show catwalk – something unheard of at the time for men’s fashion. Held at Sala Bianca within the walls of Florence’s Palazzo Pitti – the epicenter of Italian couture style shows — Brioni suits were officially introduced to the international fashion world. The Brioni brand gained instant celebrity status: lo stile Italiano had gone viral.
Silk ties, a colorful and trendy accessory of Italian menswear(© Dreamstime)
The seduction of Italian men’s suits quickly advanced across the Atlantic. Public appearances by John Wayne, Clark Gable, and other head-turning stars sporting a Brioni suit added to the allure. Remember the cutting figure of Marcello in La Dolce Vita? Brioni is to thank for at least the clothing part of that!
Of course, the Brioni brand was not a stand-alone in the burgeoning market of Italian bella figura. Rising from the fashion districts of Naples was Kiton. Founded in 1956 by 5th generation fabric merchant Ciro Paone, the brand set its sights on “one upping” the suit game. Only the finest of fabrics were acceptable, every garment hand-stitched, continuity of piecing created the illusion of a fluid ensemble: as Paone summed it, “a garment that knows you just as well as you know yourself.” Paone’s obsessive work habits – “half-love, half-madness” – resulted in the embodiment of what remains today as the classic Neapolitan style suit. Starting at $8,500 USD, they also remain a classic status symbol!
Italian elegance for men: a mix of tradition and innovation (© Dreamstime)
While the mid-century designer greats influence on esteemed menswear endures, it would be inexcusable neglect not to pay homage to a more contemporary name homologous to suits – Giorgio Armani. Original plans for a career in medicine never materialized; Armani felt an irresistible draw towards fashion design. Almost 20 years of experience later, he debuted his personal label in July 1975. His innovative ideas – a ready-to-wear line, massive ad campaigns, a vast array of branded products – quickly established the Armani name as synonymous with high fashion.
Armani’s trademark relaxed-fit jackets soon become iconic as the sexy replacement for the “power suit.” Remember Richard Gere in American Gigolo? Or how about Crockett and Tubbs in Miami Vice, DiCaprio in Wolf of Wall Street? Point made.
Fine fabrics, hand stitchery, minute attention to detail, and intangible Italian glamour can make a fine suit, but there must be sound building blocks on which to apply these elements.
Imagine, if you will, a Venn Diagram: the three large overlapping circles each contain one of the three distinct styles of Italian suit design – Romano, Napoletano and Milanese. Within that inner circle created by the overlapping large circles we find these shared traits: an unstructured shoulder, high gorge lines on the lapel, a slender contoured fit, flapless pockets, high buttons, no break at the pant cuff, no rear vent – the bones of the Italian suit that took the fashion world by storm in 1952.
Perhaps the words of Kiton founder Ciro Paone say it best for every creative mind, hand, and soul that toil passionately together, creating a masterfully crafted Italian suit: “I love beauty, I am faithful to tradition, and I take huge pride in my work.”
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