December is a month filled with Christian religious festivals, celebrated with profound devotion on the island of Sicily. These festivities could be seen as precursors to Christmas, as the island tradition integrates them into a celebration that is not solely religious but also significantly culinary. Indeed, the kitchen, once the center of daily life and the hub of household chores, where traditions were kept alive and passed down through generations, now primarily serves as a space dedicated to cooking.
Let’s explore these holidays that continue to punctuate our lives today. The celebrations begin on December 8th with the Immaculate Conception, a day marked in red on the calendar, honoring the highly revered Madonna, sinless mother of God, and mother of all Christians. It’s customary to gather with family and friends on the evening of December 7th, sharing a meal of delicious sfincione—a type of pizza with a soft, well-leavened dough, topped with tomato sauce, anchovies, spicy cheese (preferably caciocavallo), and toasted breadcrumbs. For dessert, buccellato is served, a visually appealing and delectable pastry ring made of shortcrust pastry, filled with a mix of dried figs, chopped almonds, dark chocolate shavings, and decorated with chopped pistachios and other candied fruits. This dessert is a tribute to the starry sky associated with the Immaculate Conception, who is also the patron saint of Sicily. These gatherings often include playing tombola or card games.
Less than a week later, on December 13th, comes the festival of Santa Lucia. While not marked in red on the calendar, this festival is celebrated not only in Sicily but also in many other Italian cities and even in countries of Northern Europe, such as Norway, Sweden, and Finland. Similar to the Jewish festival of Hanukkah and the Indian festival of Diwali, it echoes the worship of Artemis, the Greek goddess venerated in Ortigia, Syracuse, often depicted holding two flaming torches symbolizing the rite of light. Lucia, a virgin and martyr during Diocletian’s persecution, brought aid to Christians hiding in the catacombs. She wore lit candles on her head to light her way and keep her hands free to carry food to those in hiding.
Before the adoption of the Gregorian calendar in 1582, Santa Lucia was traditionally celebrated around December 23, aligning with the winter solstice, the shortest day of the year. This is encapsulated in the old saying, “Santa Lucia, the shortest day there is.” The virgin martyr of Syracuse is linked to the Madonna of Tears, who is also adored in Syracuse, notably in a magnificent sanctuary located in the same neighborhood—perhaps even the exact spot—of the town’s patron saint’s suffering.
In Syracuse, her hometown, and where her cult is deeply rooted, the celebrations for Santa Lucia (whose mortal remains are actually in Venice) commence on December 9th, with the opening of the niche housing her effigy. Then, on the afternoon of December 13th, this silver effigy, usually kept closed in the Cathedral for the rest of the year, is shouldered by the “green berets,” followed by the “green handkerchiefs” who carry the relics. The procession, starting from the Cathedral, winds up around 10 PM in the Santa Lucia neighborhood, named in her honor. During this time, the effigy becomes a focal point for public veneration, drawing many faithful to Syracuse, including large numbers from Argentina — which has perhaps the world’s largest Syracusan community — and the United States.
Another significant procession occurs on December 20th. This time, firefighters carry the effigy through the courtyards of the Hospital, visiting the sick. Before returning to the Cathedral, the procession stops on the Umbertino Bridge, culminating the festivities with fireworks.
The feast on December 13th features arancini—resembling supplì but distinct, filled with meat ragù, peas, cheese, or with butter, ham, and mozzarella. Modern variations include fillings like spinach or even squid ink. An indispensable dish is cuccìa, traditionally made with wheat cooked in wine. In its savory form, it’s simply wheat cooked in wine, while the sweet variant is mixed with sieved, sugared sheep ricotta, enriched with chocolate drops, candied pumpkin pieces, and a dusting of cinnamon.
In Palermo the celebrations for Santa Lucia, the patron saint of sight, extend beyond religious observances to include the ritual of essential foods. Alongside arancini and cuccìa—also served with sweet biancomangiare or withchocolate—the tables of Palermitans are graced with panelle, delectable fritters made from chickpea flour and water, as well as various potato-based dishes like gateau, croquettes, and rice with beans and dried chestnuts.
It’s noteworthy that the December 13th feast distinctly lacks any flour-based products. This unique aspect lies at the core of Palermo’s culinary tradition honoring the saint, which originated under dire circumstances. In 1646, the city was in the grip of a famine: its people, starving and without food, were delivered a miracle on December 13th when a ship laden with grain arrived. Driven by hunger, they cooked the grain immediately and simply seasoned it with oil, giving birth to the savory version of cuccìa. Palermitan sweets, beloved not just by the islanders but also by those far beyond, led to the evolution of cuccìa into one of the most cherished delicacies of Palermitan sweet traditions. Unlike many other festive treats, it is exclusively savored on December 13th.
To note also that the spherical shape of arancini in Palermo is thought to symbolize eyes, linking them to the saint’s miracle, often depicted in religious iconography as holding her eyes on a tray.
In the Nordic countries, where long winters make light a precious gift, Santa Lucia is celebrated as the guardian of sight and a bearer of light.
As December draws to a close, the focus shifts to Christmas. But, of course, that’s a tale for another time.
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