Celebrating Malbec

On April 17, wine enthusiasts across the globe gathered to celebrate World Malbec Day. For novices and oenophiles alike, the celebration was a great opportunity to sample some of Argentina’s flagship varietal.

 

Although Malbec is stunningly popular, few Americans knew anything about the grape just ten years ago. Thank goodness it made its way North — today, Malbec represents a great value for those in search of a bold-yet-approachable red.

World Malbec Day was created by Wines of Argentina to commemorate the day in 1853 when Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, an Argentinean political leader, asked his government to spend money on the nation’s agriculture industry.

 

Wine grapes had been growing in Argentina since the 1500s, when Spain colonized the Americas. But the wine industry remained undeveloped. So after lawmakers signed off on Sarmiento’s proposal, Michel Aime Pouget, a well-known French agriculture scientist, was asked to bring over grapevines from France.

Pouget transported many different grapes, but Malbec — a thin-skinned variety that often failed to ripen in France — was the most successful, benefitting tremendously from the hot, dry climate of Argentina’s Mendoza region.

 

In the ensuing years, Malbec would have many ups and downs. For most of the 20th century, growers were more interested in quantity than quality, primarily producing jug wine for local consumption. And during Argentina’s economic nightmare of the 1980s, the entire industry almost collapsed.

Fortunately, ambitious producers recognized the importance of exports in the 1990s, so started focusing on quality wine production. Argentina’s wines soon garnered international acclaim, and Malbec’s popularity exploded.

 

Today, America has what appears to be an unquenching thirst for Argentinean wine. Between 2007 and 2011, shipments of wine from Argentina to the United States more than doubled, from 3.3 million cases to 7.1 million cases. And demand shows little sign of slowing. From 2010 to 2011, according to Nielsen, Malbec sales in the United States increased by a whopping 49 percent.

Malbec’s rise can be attributed to many factors. But most importantly, as New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov has written, “it’s the right sort of wine at the right kind of price.”

 

Most Malbecs are easily enjoyed. They’re approachable when young, and marked by straightforward flavors that everyone enjoys — like ripe, dark fruit, fresh wild herbs, and sweet spices. Thanks to good acidity, most Malbecs are also exceptionally juicy, so work well with food. Best of all, Malbec is a great value. Plenty of good options are available for less than $20 per bottle.

 

When looking for affordable wines, producers like Bodega Catena Zapata, Trapiche, Altos Las Hormigas, and Crios de Susana Balbo rarely disappoint. At a recent tasting of Malbecs, I was most impressed with the offerings from Bodega Colomé, which is part of the U.S.-based Hess Family Estates, Clos de los Siete, and Graffigna. When I’m looking to splurge, the wines from O. Fournier and Achaval Ferrer always impress. All these brands are widely available.

 

Malbec is one of my favorite summertime reds, especially when served slightly chilled. Argentina has the highest beef consumption per capita, so it’s no surprise that the wine works perfectly with grilled steak and other meats. So next time you fire up the barbecue, pick up some Malbec!