Cassoeula (pronounced cass-oy-la) — which is especially popular in the region of Lombardia and is often associated with Milan — is a rustic, hearty dish of pork and cabbage, traditionally made when the first frost sweetens the cabbage, marking the colder months and the end of the pig-slaughtering season. This stew has a rich cultural history, deeply tied to the rhythms of rural life, where every part of the pig found a use, including the less common cuts that still define cassoeula today.
Origins and etymology of the name
The name cassoeula likely comes from the Lombard word cassu, meaning “ladle,” which was used for stirring and serving it; interestingly, both the name and the dish seem to share similarities with another traditional rustic stew coming from France, cassoulet, typical of the Occitan region and made with meat and beans. Though cassoeula lacks the beans of cassoulet, the two dishes share a similar spirit of making the most of what’s available in colder months.
In the past, as we mentioned, cassoeula was prepared in late fall or early winter, a time that coincided with the pig-slaughtering season in rural communities. Pigs, valued for their versatility, provided meat, fat, and even bones that could be used throughout the winter months for food; in the case of cassoeula, the focus was on using less popular cuts like the pig’s trotters, ribs, skin (cotenne), and head (musetto): tough and filled with connective tissue they were, but long, slow cooking would transform them into tender, succulent pieces. Slow-cooking was also economical and practical, as it required minimal ingredients while delivering maximum flavor.
The main ingredients
The key ingredients in a traditional cassoeula are simple yet specific: musetto (pig’s snout), cotenne (skin), ribs, and verzini (special small sausages typical to Lombardy) are crucial for an authentic cassoeula, with each cut contributes different textures and flavors, while verzini adds a slight smokiness. Then, there is savoy cabbage: known for its resilience in the cold and its sweet flavor after the first frost, savoy cabbage softens beautifully in the stew, and balances well the richness of the pork.
Aromatics are also very important: onion, carrot, and celery are sautéed at the start to build the stew’s foundational flavors. As we all know, these ingredients form the soffritto, an essential element in Italian cooking that adds depth and a hint of sweetness.
A good cassoeula wouldn’t be right without a splash of red or white wine, depending on family tradition: it is typically added to deglaze the pan and infuse the meat with an extra layer of flavor. The addition of tomato is more controversial: while some cooks add tomato paste or purée, purists often stick to a simple broth, allowing the natural flavors of the pork and cabbage to shine.
Preparation and cooking techniques
Despite the rustic nature of the dish, making a good cassoeula requires a methodical approach and a generous amount of time. First, the pork cuts are boiled briefly to tenderizes the meat and removes excess fat. Separately, a soffritto is prepared, sautéing onions, carrots, and celery until they are fragrant and lightly caramelized. The pork is then added to this base, and wine is poured in, allowing the flavors to meld and deepen.
Once the alcohol has evaporated, the cabbage, cleaned and cut into large strips, is added. Now, patience is essential: the stew is left to simmer for two to three hours, occasionally adding ladles of broth to keep the stew from drying out. Slow cooking allows the flavors to develop fully, resulting in a rich, deeply satisfying dish where the pork becomes tender, the cabbage soft and flavorful, and the broth thick and savory.
A dish for cold days
Cassoeula is considered an ideal winter dish: the hearty pork and the nutrient-dense cabbage provide warmth and sustenance, essential for enduring Lombardy’s chilly winters. Historically, it was made on special occasions or Sundays, bringing families together around a communal table. Today, it remains a symbol of comfort and nostalgia, particularly among older generations who recall it as a family staple during colder months.
And don’t forget that a traditional cassoeula calls for a wine pairing that can stand up to its complex flavors. Red wines from Lombardy’s neighboring regions, such as Barbera or Bonarda from Oltrepò Pavese, offer just the right balance of acidity to cut through the fattiness of the pork.
Cassoeula between modernity and tradition
While cassoeula has deep roots in rural Lombardy, it found renewed interest among urban cooks and food enthusiasts. In recent years, many chefs have embraced it as part of Italy’s culinary heritage, bringing it back to restaurant menus and even adapting it with creative twists: some use leaner cuts or experiment with additional vegetables, while others play with presentation, serving it in smaller, refined portions. However, traditionalists maintain that the authentic recipe is the best way to experience it, as it preserves the original flavors and texture that make this dish so iconic.
In fact, it’s hard to think of cassoeula being any different from its classic self, because it is truly part of Lombardia’s culinary identity. For many, making it is a family tradition and, as it often is with this type of recipes, each family may have its own version, differing slightly in ingredients or preparation methods.
As often happens in Italy, there is also a cultural connection of the dish with religious festivities. Some links it with the celebration of Saint Anthony, on January 17. Saint Anthony is the patron saint of butchers and domestic animals, and it’s said that cassoeula was usually made on this day in his honor.
Donate