Everyone knows balsamic vinegar: it’s in supermarkets around the world and often mistaken as just another salad dressing ingredient. But its real story is far richer – and far more exclusive. As British journalist Giulia Crouch recently highlighted in her piece for The Times, there are two very different worlds within the category: one is mass-market; the other is a slow-aged artisanal product known to chefs and gourmands as one of Italy’s greatest culinary expressions. It’s time to learn how to tell the difference!
From ancient roots to Modena’s “black gold”
The history of balsamic vinegar reaches back to Roman times, when cooked grape must (mosto cotto) was used as both a sweetener and a medicinal tonic. During the Middle Ages, balsamic vinegar began appearing in noble households, often given as a gift or part of a dowry. The Este family, who ruled Modena during the Renaissance, were known for their appreciation of fine vinegar, and it was during this era that balsamic vinegar began to be codified as a high-status product. The term balsamic, from balsamum, originally referred to the vinegar’s believed healing properties.
By the 18th century, records began documenting traditional production methods, some of which remain virtually unchanged today.
What’s the difference? DOP vs IGP
Today, balsamic vinegar exists under multiple designations, each with very different production standards and culinary uses.
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP (also made in Reggio Emilia under a similar label) is the most prized version, and it is made from just one ingredient: cooked grape must, usually from Trebbiano or Lambrusco grapes grown locally. This must is aged for a minimum of 12 years in a series of wooden barrels, each smaller than the last and made from different woods – oak, cherry, juniper, ash, and chestnut – to impart complexity. Some barrels have been in use for decades, and each year only a small quantity is extracted, making the yield limited and the product precious.
To carry the DOP label (Protected Designation of Origin), the vinegar must pass strict tasting and quality controls and be bottled in the iconic 100ml flasks designed by Giorgetto Giugiaro: these are the vinegars that can retail for €100 or more – and for good reason.
On the other end is Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP, the more common type found on supermarket shelves. It is a blend of grape must and wine vinegar and may contain caramel for coloring and stabilizing agents. The IGP version is more varied in quality and intended for everyday use on salads, in marinades, or as a base for reductions. While not as exclusive as the DOP, good IGP balsamics can still deliver exceptional flavor and texture.
Then there are condimento balsamics and balsamic glazes, which fall outside EU certification rules. Some are high-quality small-batch products; others are inexpensive, syrupy sauces best avoided.
The masters of the craft
Italy’s most respected producers of traditional balsamic vinegar are often family-owned operations going back generations. Acetaia Giusti, established in 1605, is considered the oldest existing balsamic vinegar producer and remains a benchmark for quality. Other respected names include Acetaia Malpighi, San Giacomo, and Villa Manodori.
These producers age their vinegars for 12, 18, or even 25 years, with some offering “
extravecchio lines that rival fine wines in complexity. The long maturation process and artisanal technique limit supply, with only around 14,000 liters of DOP balsamic are produced annually. For perspective, that’s about as much as a small vineyard might bottle of a single vintage wine.
What top chefs are doing with it
As Crouch noted in her article, chefs like Theo Randall and Francesco Mazzei consider traditional DOP balsamic a “gastronomic treasure.” Its thick, glossy texture and multilayered flavor, which includes notes of wood, molasses, cherry, and spice, make it ideal for finishing dishes, but not for cooking.
Randall uses it on Parmigiano Reggiano or Prosciutto di Parma, where just a few drops can bring out the flavor of these ingredients even more. Mazzei sees it as the truffle or caviar of the vinegar world: expensive, concentrated, and transformative in small quantities. Other popular pairings include DOP balsamic on vanilla ice cream or mascarpone, fresh strawberries or peaches, steak, aged cheeses, risotto or gnocco fritto.
IGP balsamic, on the other hand, can be whisked into dressings, used in pan sauces, or added to roasted vegetables.
A surge in global interest
In recent years, traditional balsamic has gained more visibility outside of Italy, thanks in part to food education efforts by the Consorzio Tutela Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. According to consortium president Enrico Corsini, increased demand is a result of “growing awareness of authenticity and craftsmanship in food.”
TasteAtlas recently ranked Modena as one of the top cities in the world for food in 2025, and balsamic vinegar was a central reason. Its inclusion on Michelin-starred menus and availability through select online retailers have made it more accessible to home cooks, though the best bottles are still difficult to find.
How to spot the real thing
If you want to try a real balsamic vinegar, look for these indicators:
DOP: look for the yellow-red DOP seal and the signature 100ml bottle.
IGP: it should list grape must and wine vinegar as the main ingredients. Avoid anything with sugar or thickeners if you’re looking for quality.
Price: expect to pay at least €50 (just short of 60 USD) for an entry-level DOP bottle. Anything much cheaper is unlikely to meet traditional standards.
Retailers: in the US, look to delis like Panzer’s or online platforms such as Sous Chef and Eataly. In Italy, producers often sell directly via their websites or tasting rooms.
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