My vocal coach once told me that the danger of being a singer lies in the temptation to indulge in late-night food-based rendezvous with colleagues after performances: from my own humble experience, I can attest to the truth of this statement.
After the curtain would close and the applause fade, it was common for me, fellow performers, and even our maestros, to gather at our tenor’s home for impromptu cene di mezzanotte to
relax together after a performance. Our go-to recipes for these midnight feasts were two: pane cunzato, a delightfully rich but simple baked sandwich and a staple of Sicilian cuisine, and the ever-reliable spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino. Today, we’ll delve deeper into the history of the latter—a dish as simple as it is complex, as humble as it is royal.
This simple yet flavorful pasta was born in the sun-drenched groves of Campania, where it was commonly made by the wives of farmers. In all his humbleness, it is a symbol of the resourcefulness and culinary ingenuity of these women who, with easy access to garlic, olive oil, and chili pepper, created something that not only satisfied hunger but also delighted the palate: a dish that captured the essence of Italian cuisine—simple ingredients, masterfully combined.
The history of our spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino, however, didn’t end in the idyllic olive groves where it began but moved swiftly into the lavish court of Naples where, with a touch of royal grandeur, it was alternatively known as vermicelli alla Borbonica. The name likely originated from the invention of the four-pronged fork by chamberlain of the court of Ferdinand IV of Bourbon Gennaro Spadaccini, in 1770. The four-pronged fork, which is now the standard fork used around the world, was more efficient at spearing and holding food than the previously used two-pronged fork, whose concept dates back to Ancient Greece and the Byzantine Empire. Italy became the fork’s true home since the earliest times: the peninsula, with its historical ties to the Eastern Roman Empire, was quick to adopt this utensil, especially as pasta became an integral part of the diet. By the way, Spadaccini was also a writer and poet: he wrote a number of books and poems, including a text on the history of the fork, and he is remembered as a brilliant inventor and a man of culture.
But let’s go back to our spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino…
In a world where complexity often garners attention, their true beauty lies in their stunning simplicity. This dish relies on just three primary ingredients: garlic, olive oil, and chili pepper. Yet, within this very simplicity, we can find the universe of flavors, textures, and aromas that makes it such a beloved classic.
As it often is when cooking Italian, the choice of ingredients is key. Let’s take olive oil, for instance. While extra virgin olive oil is the go-to choice for many modern recipes, the original recipe for our spaghetti calls, in fact, for simple olive oil: this preference was likely influenced by the dish’s origins among farmers, who had easy access to freshly pressed olive oil and used whatever was more available and cheaper for them. From a more structural point of view, the oil not only adds richness but also serves as a vehicle to infuse the garlic and chili flavors, creating a harmonious blend.
Garlic, we can say, is the soul of this dish, providing a vigorous taste that complements the richness of the olive oil. If you want to truly up the game of your spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino, look no further than garlic from Valle dell’Ufita in the Avellino area, which is considered optimal for its unique flavor profile: this garlic is less pungent than its counterparts, offering a subtle sweetness that really helps the dish reach a perfect balance. Chili pepper adds a zesty kick, rounding out the recipe and adding a layer of complexity; while the type of chili used can vary, Italian chili pepper, preferably from Calabria, is often recommended for an authentic touch. The spiciness can be adjusted according to personal preference, making the dish versatile and adaptable.
And while everyone agrees on the three previous ingredients, there is a tad more debate when it comes to the pasta we should use. Indeed, this very topic has been a subject of much discussion among culinary historians and enthusiasts alike. While spaghetti is the most commonly used shape today, some argue that linguine or vermicelli were the original choices. Jeanne Caròla Francesconi, author of the famous cookbook La Cucina Napoletana, even suggests that tagliatelle could have been the first pasta used. In cases, like this, the right answer may lie in our personal tastes: perhaps we should just try them all and pick the one we love the most. Personally, I find vermicelli are the best, but linguine come a close second!
Over the years, spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino have seen numerous variations that reflect the culinary creativity and resourcefulness of Italian cooks. Some recipes include anchovies sauteed in oil, adding a layer of umami to the dish. Others incorporate breadcrumbs to better amalgamate the ingredients, creating a more cohesive flavor profile and older recipes even used black pepper instead of – or alongside – chili pepper. Another intriguing variation is spaghetti alle vongole fujute (literally, spaghetti with “escaped clams”), a clam-flavored spaghetti that intriguingly contains no actual clams. This is a very curious recipe because, back in the day, the “clam flavor” was given by sauteing in olive oil (and then removing) sea stones, then adding the rest of the ingredients to the oil. Today, the “illusion” of clams is given by lashings of fresh parsley, which is a must for any good pasta alle vongole.
And to conclude, a bit of literature. The ingredients in spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino are just like characters in a story: each of them contributes, with its unique qualities, to the creation of a dish that is far greater than the sum of its parts.
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