Umbria and Jazz. Who Knew?

When I was in Umbria I stopped off at a small family-run winery just outside of Spello.  Enrico, the nephew of the owner (the only one who spoke English well enough to give the tour to an American) was on Spring holiday from the university in Perugia, a fact that he mentioned several times during my hour with him.

It just so happened that I was the only visitor on that mid-March day, and when Enrico found out it was my first time in Italy – and that I was alone – he began telling me about the wonders of his “bell’Umbria” in an accent so heavy it was difficult to decipher all of his words.  Like a broken spigot in the “on” position, the words flowed on and on, describing Umbria’s military positioning, gastronomic significance and artistic treasures.

Most of it was a meaningless buzz for me; I zoned out just listening to how melodious his Italian rhythms could make even Germanic and stark English.  But two words broke through: “Umbria Jazz” .

Wait – Jazz?  In Italy? It seemed like the oddest combination!  I’ve always believed in the idea that “Music is the universal language” but to be confronted with it here was a bit startling.  My face must have changed because Enrico stopped, perhaps thinking he saw a look of recognition (instead of shock) on my face.  “Yes, Umbria Jazz.  Is very famous.  You know it?”  He didn’t give me a chance to answer, though. “Is in Perugia, where I am at school.  Perugia is really best city in all of Umbria.  When I…”

Buzz…

But even though *I* had no idea what the Umbria Jazz Festival was, it turns out that it actually *is* indeed quite famous.  And it’s celebrating its 40th anniversary this year! Who knew?

In 1973 Carlo Pagnotta and Adriano Mazzoletti organized the first Umbria Jazz Festival as a series of free concerts at various venues in Terni (who loudly claims to be the birthplace of the Umbria Jazz Festival), Gubbio, Todi, Città della Pieve and Perugia. Pagnotta, a jazz fan for years who had never had the dedication to learn to play himself, had moved back to Perugia in 1955 after going to the university in Bologna and became a frequent patron of  Mazzoletti’s jazz club, the “Hot Club”.  With Mozzoletti’s pre-established relationships in the jazz community, the pair were able to attract some of jazz’s biggest names, including BB King, Miles Davis and Dizzy Gillespie.

The festival got so big, in fact, with such unexpected numbers each year that they started having security and logistical problems.  In 1975 Count Basie wasn’t even able to make it to the stage through the crowd of people gathered for his show!

After the assassination of political leader Aldo Moro in 1978, organizers decided to suspend the festival in light of socio-political conditions, not picking it back up until 1983 and permanently settling it in Perugia.  Four years later, though, they expanded the festival, inviting pop and rock artists who they believed were “able to satisfy the tastes of all music lovers” (Umbria Jazz Official Press Release, 2013).

Sting was the first special guest in 1987 and since then they’ve hosted pop music legends like Elton John, Prince, James Taylor, Phil Collins, Van Morrison, Earth Wind & Fire, Eric Clapton, Tony Bennett and Alicia Keys.

Now Umbria Jazz consists of a number of concerts in six different venues over a period of ten days (this year: July 8-17, 2016), some free and some ticketed.  Some of the artists that will perform at Umbria Jazz this year: Diana Krall, Buddy Guy, John Scofield, Brad Mehldau, Kamasi Washington, Pat Metheny, Ron Carter, Mika, George Clinton, Chick Corea, Stefano Bollani, Enrico Rava, and many others.

A more “pure” jazz evening can be found each night at Teatro Morlacchi, and an “experimental” jazz project with a new generation of musicians will be performed in conjunction with Young Jazz of Foligno and the “Comune della cittadina umbra” at Palazzo della Penna.  If you’d like to sample some of Umbria’s famous cuisine while you tap your foot to Stefano Mincone or Renato Sellani with Massimo Moriconi, check out “Bottega del Vino” or “Taverna” for brunch, aperitifs or dinner.  Free concerts can be found every night in Piazza IV Novembre and every afternoon through evening in the Carducci Gardens.

But of course, if you haven’t already booked your tickets for this year, chances are that, like me, you’re going to miss Umbria Jazz 2016.  There is, however, a mysterious tab for a webcam on their website (www.UmbriaJazz.It) that I’m hoping will give a glimpse of the action (and maybe of my winery friend Enrico in the audience somewhere). Umbria Jazz “Winter” is going to be celebrating its 23rd anniversary this December 28th – January 1st in Orvieto.