The road from Siena to Florence has been in use for centuries, passing through charming villages, fields bursting with flowers, and gently rolling countryside. About 20 minutes north of Siena, along one bend of the road, an impressive skyline suddenly springs up: it’s the castle wall and fortified towers of Monteriggioni, a garrison town founded in the early 1200s.
Monteriggioni was established as a defensive outpost by the army of Siena to keep watch on its long-time enemy, the Florentines. In its early days, it was almost exclusively inhabited by soldiers, officers and magistrates, along with their families. Completely surrounded by a thick stone wall, the castle-town was fortified by 14 square-based towers set equidistant from its two gates, Porta Giovanni and Porta Romea. In ancient times, the gates were equipped with drawbridges and shutters operated by a pulley system.
Today the well-preserved village offers a stunning example of medieval military architecture. The main entry point is Porta Romea whose name recalls the terminus (Rome) of the Via Francigena, a busy medieval highway for pilgrims and merchants that passes nearby. The route of the Via Francigena was set by Bishop Sigeric of Canterbury, who first made the journey in 990 AD to meet with the Pope. He kept detailed records of his trip, including pictures and maps of the 79 stops he made along the way, which became the basis for today’s pilgrimage route.
Back then, the pilgrims were easy to spot – they wore long cloaks, sported wide-brimmed hats, and carried wooden staffs, both for physical support along the route and for defense, if needed. Even today, it’s common to see long-distance hikers and bikers in the village, taking a rest from whatever segment of the Via Francigena they decided to traverse.
In the early 1300s, Dante Alighieri visited Monteriggioni during his decades of exile. Evidently, the architecture made quite an impression on him and he later immortalized the town’s distinctive features in Canto XXXI of the Divine Comedy. Comparing the 14 towers to frightening giants keeping guard over the Inferno, Dante wrote:
As on its circular parapets
Monteriggioni crowns itself with walls;
E’en thus the shore, encompassing the abyss
Was turreted with giants, half their length
Uprearing, horrible, whom Jove from heaven
Yet threatens, when his muttering thunder rolls.
Once through Porta Romea, it’s easy to walk from one end of the village to the other in about 10 minutes. No worries about getting lost: there is just one main road. A large water reservoir is centrally located in the main piazza; there are smaller ancient cisterns placed elsewhere in the village. Stone buildings that once housed magistrates and wealthy nobles are now restaurants or shops selling pottery, clothing and art. Gardens are scattered around the town; in medieval times, these green areas helped sustain the troops when the castle was under siege.
In the main piazza sits the church of Santa Maria Assunta, built in 1213, with its simple yet elegant Romanesque-Gothic lines. As befitting a town that attracts its fair share of tourists, Monteriggioni has an assortment of restaurants to choose from – from those that specialize in simple but delicious piadinas (a traditional flatbread sandwich) to ones offering a full-course lunch or dinner.
The circular wall is about 1,600 feet in circumference, following the contours of the surrounding landscape. Several sections are open to visitors; the access is via two staircases where tickets must be purchased (hang on to the ticket; it also allows entry into the museum). With an elevation of about 65 feet, the walkways provide overviews of the vineyards, olive groves and the eastern slope of the Montagnola Senese, a hilly region that has been inhabited since Etruscan times.
The town museum, Monteriggioni in Arme, offers a fascinating look at the village’s rich military history. Inside are reproductions of weapons, armor and siege engines as well as displays of military uniforms and dioramas depicting life in the fortified village. The museum staff is exceedingly helpful and can provide brochures in both English and Italian.
Monteriggioni is so magical that, at times, it seems more like a movie set than a real town. In some ways, that’s true. Its compact size and impressive architecture not only attract visitors but have been used by film crews and inspired backgrounds for videogame developers. A medieval festival is held every July, complete with feasting, falconry, jousting and re-enactments of key battles. This year’s festival is set for July 4-7.
The nearby countryside offers great hiking and cycling opportunities, leading past ruined castles, medieval chapels and picturesque villages. One excursion worth considering is Abbadia Isola, an abbey that was also a rest stop for pilgrims on the Via Francigena. Founded around 1,000 by the Benedictines, the abbey’s strategic position enhanced its power and influence during the Middle Ages. Besides visiting the abbey, tourists today can also visit a small archaeological museum.
Monteriggioni is an easy day-trip from Siena. If driving, there is a large parking lot outside the town’s hilltop location. If taking public transportation, buses from Autolinee Toscane, the regional bus line, will drop you along the main road – ask the driver where to get off. From there, it’s about a 10-minute walk uphill to Porta Romea.
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