Summer is on the wane, and the tomatoes are finished. That means out with salsa checca and in with all manner of cooked sauces for weeknight pasta dishes. With just a little advance work, this one comes together right on the stovetop. You can chop and prepare each ingredient as the dish cooks.
Sweet pork sausage, redolent of fennel, is sauteed with onions and garlic to give the dish its hearty character and backbone. Present also is an enticing array of aromatic herbs – erbe aromatiche – even the words whet the appetite. Rosemary, sage, oregano, prezzemolo, and basil are all here.
There are many charming twists to the Italian culinary lexicon – un bel caffè, what my mom used to call “a nice little cup of coffee”, or fare la scarpetta, that quintessentially Italian maneuver of mopping up sauce with a slice of bread, right down to my personal favorite, the recipe direction quanto basta or “q.b.” It means simply, what ever amount you feel is enough, and you’ll see it here. It applies to all of the herbs used, but especially the dried oregano and fresh sage. I like about 1 teaspoon of each, but let your personal preference be your guide.
Dry white wine is used to deglaze the pan, and it marries beautifully with the sausage and herbs to form the sauce. Zafferano, or saffron, from Abruzzo’s Navelli plain, with its sumptuous red color and unique fragrance, is the star of the dish. One of Abruzzo’s most famous exports, it is the stigma of the eye-catching purple crocus. Zafferano takes center stage in many well-loved dishes from other regions of Italy. Last year I wrote about Risotto allo Zafferano here, surely one of the most famous dishes made with this, the world’s most expensive spice. It is the zafferano that works its own brand of magic in today’s dish, infusing the pasta with a rich golden hue.
Since you’re using zafferano from Abruzzo, I suggest pairing it with another of Abruzzo’s products, rigatoni from pastificio Rustichella d’Abruzzo. This pasta, made of fine durum wheat and spring water is formed with the traditional bronze dies. It cooks up with a toothsome bite and is the perfect complement to this satisfying dish.
Pasta con Salsiccia, Vino Bianco, Zafferano, ed Erbe Aromatiche
serves 4
•1 pound of sweet pork sausage
•1 medium yellow onion
•2 cloves garlic
•¾ cup dry white wine
•¼ cup of basil leaves, cut in chiffonade
•¼ cup of prezzemolo leaves (Italian parsley), chopped coarsely
•Fresh sage leaves, q.b.
•Dried oregano, q.b.
•1 rosemary sprig, 6-8 inches long
•2 teaspoons zafferano threads
•Extra virgin olive oil
•Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
•Parmigiano-Reggiano to finish
•¾ pound dried pasta corta, such as rigatoni
Place the zafferano threads in a large spoon and toast them by holding the spoon over an open flame for a few seconds, just until the fragrance wafts up. Crush the threads in a mortar and pestle, and set aside. Remove the sausage from its casings and break it into chunks, and set aside. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a 10-inch skillet over a medium flame. While the oil is heating, peel and mince the onion.
Add the onion and ½ teaspoon fine sea salt to the skillet and saute over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the onion softens and becomes translucent, about 6 minutes. While the onion cooks, mince the garlic. When the onion is almost done, add the minced garlic and saute until the garlic is fragrant, being careful not to burn it, about 1 minute. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the sausage to the skillet. Saute about 3 minutes, stirring often.
Chop the fresh sage leaves and add them, along with the crushed, dried oregano, and rosemary sprig, to the skillet. Continue to saute until the sausage is browned and thoroughly cooked. Pour ¼ cup of wine into the mortar with the zafferano and stir, scraping the crushed zafferano from the sides and bottom of the mortar.
Add the zafferano mixture and remaining ½ cup of wine to the skillet. If necessary, use some of the wine to rinse any zafferano that clings to the mortar. Reduce the flame to medium-low and continue cooking a few minutes more, taking care that the mixture does not dry out. Chop the basil and parsley.
While the sauce is cooking, heat 6 quarts of water in a large pot. When the water reaches the boil, add 3 tablespoons of coarse sea salt. Add the pasta and cook until it is almost done.
Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of pasta cooking water. Pour the pasta into the skillet with the sauce. Add the parsley and basil, and continue cooking, tossing well, adding a bit of pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Remove and discard the rosemary sprig. Add 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil and 1 teaspoon black pepper, tossing well. Serve in pasta bowls, and top with Parmigiano.
Zafferano is available from Gustiamo.com
Questions? Email me at adri@AdriBarrCrocetti.com or visit at AdriBarrCrocetti.com
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