String some lights, hang a wreath, decorate the tree, and deck the halls with every form of green and red imaginable – Christmas is nigh! But have you polished up your Urn of Fate – fattened your Fasson ox – reserved your seat for the Befana boat race? These Christmas traditions, and other unexpected sorts, help make the Yuletide season most unique in Italy!
Unlike the American observation that focuses solely on December 25th, the Christmas season begins full blown – literally – on December 8th in Italy. The boom of cannon fire from Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome announces L’Immacolata Concezione (Celebration of the Immaculate Conception) and the season begins, continuing through the Epiphany on January 6th.
Regata delle Befane – The race of the Befana witches
Befana! That ol’ beloved witch who was late for a date with the 3 Wise Men and thus, is forever searching for the Christ Child on Epiphany. And of course, her search includes leaving gifts for every child so as not to miss the Newborn King.
On January 6th, in Venice, five “befane” over age 55 don suitable witch attire, hop in an unsteady-at-best mascareta (small single oar boat), and row-row-row their boats from Palazzo Bilbo to the Rialto Bridge. A gigantic stocking hanging from the bridge is the official finish line, appropriately so.
Fiera del Bue Grasso – the Fair of the Fat Ox
Christmas in the United States is often associated with a fat man in a red suit, but Babbo Natale must step aside for the annual festivals celebrating the fat oxen of the northwestern region of Piedmont. During December weekends prior to Christmas, communities throughout the region host serious competitions among the local hefty oxen – and their owners – with the winning ox granted the wearing of the gualdrappa, a festive ornamental drape.
La N’docciata – Agnone’s River of Fire
In the southern Italian region of Molise lies the quiet town of Agnone. Come December 24th ,however, the community literally turns up the heat on the Christmas season. It’s time for La N’docciata, the festive parade of large, fan-shaped torches. Having anywhere from 2 to 10 or more spokes and standing 6 to 8 feet tall, the fiery torches appear in legion as if flaming garden trellis’ are overtaking the town. What remains of the n’docce (torches) is then piled in the central piazza for the Bonfire of Brotherhood. With roots of ancient origin, today’s event symbolizes the burning of anything negative, while a large Nativity overlooking the scene reminds of hope and renewal in the coming year.
Le Lettere di Auguri
Oh, commercialized world…this is a tradition you will not like! Rather than penning a lengthy list of material goods wanted because they’ve been nice, children in Italy write a lettera di auguri to their parents. This letter of thanks and appreciation is presented to the parents on Christmas Eve, or placed ceremoniously under the dinner plate on Christmas Day.
Ballo della Pupa – the exploding puppet woman of Abruzzo
And no, it’s not from overeating on Christmas Day, but instead an ancient rite celebrated on December 26th in honor of The Feast Day of St. Barbara. The grand finale to this feast day is the Ballo della Pupa – the dance of the puppet. A large, brightly colored papier-mâché “woman” is affixed to metal framework laden with fireworks, while a man stands inside, providing her with legs and movement. As the puppet merrily dances about to folk tunes, the long-anticipated pyrotechnic show begins. Sparks and flames and colors shoot in every direction as the now-exploding puppet woman dances feverishly for the crowd.
Although this display has ancient pagan roots and has become Christianized over the decades, the belief that a prosperous year will ensue after a successful blaze of fireworks is still held to this day.
Il Ceppo – Christmas trees Italian style
That beautiful tinsel-laden tree that resides in many American and Italian homes during the Christmas season has a Tuscan cousin. Constructed of wood in the shape of pyramid, this shelf-like structure, the ceppo, remains a beloved ancient tradition in Tuscan homes. Believed to be an extension of the Yule log, also known as a ceppo, this vertical version traditionally consists of 3 specific shelves or stations. The lower shelf holds the presepio (Nativity scene), the gift from God; the second shelf is reserved for gifts of the earth such as nuts and fruits; the top shelf is filled with small presents, the gifts of men. Often dressed with candles, tinsel and other shimmering decor, the twinkling ceppo is also known as the Tree of Light.
The Urn of Fate
With the family gathered on la Vigilia (Christmas Eve), the day of il cenone (light eating in preparation for the holiday) draws to a close. No meat is eaten on this day, but the traditional evening feast of fish and vegetables leaves no one hungry. While a ceppo (Yule log) crackles in the fire, the family waits expectantly to draw a gift from an ornate bowl known as the Urn of Fate. Although an empty box or two may lurk and result in a sad face of fate, each family member is eventually rewarded with a small gift drawn from the bowl before departing for Christmas Eve mass.
Zampognari – the bagpiper players of Italy
Wait. Bagpipes? In Italy? Why yes! A delightful tradition with age-old roots, the zampognari (bagpipe players) dress in traditional shepherds’ garb of heavy wool capes, woolen vests, and strappy leather ties over woolen knickers and descend from the mountains (symbolically) as shepherds of days past. Heralding the season and the birth of the Christ Child, the pipes enchant with time-honored songs, as they announce the arrival of the shepherds, now home for the holidays. Legend states that the original shepherds who visited Jesus played their pipes to lull the babe; thus, modern zampognari stop for a moment’s quiet reflection when passing a public Nativity scene.
These zampognari are said to have originated in the hills and mountains of northern Italy, as well as around Rome. As with their Scottish brethren, the shepherds lived remote lives and entertained themselves with hand-wrought wooden pipes. The tradition of bagpipe Christmas music is alive and well in smaller locales in the north, while in Rome and regions further south it flourishes in many towns’ seasonal celebrations.
La Coppa dell’ Amicizia – the Cup of Friendship
As with more than one winter tradition of old, things can get intermingled with Christmas doings, and before you know it, a new tradition is born. And so it seems to go with La Coppa dell’ Amicizia (the cup of friendship), a community-styled drink cup unique to Valle d’Aosta, that has become a seasonal favorite pastime.
The Coppa dell’ Amicizia is a large round vessel generally carved from wood, fashioned with a series of spouts for drinking. Tradition calls for filling the cup with Caffé Valdostano, a hot mixture of coffee, grappa, and spices. Partakers sip from an individual spout, then pass the cup along. Heaven forbid the friendship cup be sat down, however, before its contents are gone!
In this ever-changing world, traditions are a sweet tie that truly bind us to our past, as well as our future. Viva le tradizioni natalizie uniche d’Italia – long live the unique Christmas traditions of Italy!.
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